Lace-making in the Midlands : past and present

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LACE-MAKING
IN THE MIDLANDS

Cornell University
Library

The original of tliis book is in
tine Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.

http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924059845044

AT WOICIC

OLD rAS'iinxico I'HJ.liw and stand

LACE-MAKING

IN THE MIDLANDS

PAST AND PRESENT

BY

C. C. CHANNER
M. E. ROBERTS

METHUEN & CO.

36 ESSEX STREET, W.C.

LONDON

1900

TT

1900

DEDICATED BY PERMISSION
TO

HER ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCESS LOUISE
THE DUCHESS OF ARGYLL

(President of the Ladies' Work Society)

CONTENTS

PAGE

I. Progress of Lace-making in Europe . . i
II. Progress of Lace-making in England . .17

III. Lace-making in the Midlands during the

Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries 23

IV. Lace Schools . . ... 30
V. Lace-makers at Home . . . . 40

VI. Decline of the Lace Industry . . . 45

VII. Revival of the Lace Industry . • • 53

VIII. The Condition and Prospects of Lace-

making at the Present Time

61

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FIG. PAGE

At Work .... Frontispiece

1. Cut- Work or Greek Lace, Sixteenth Century . . 2

2. Torchon Edging and Braid . . . . 4

3. Italian Lace with Continuous Braid closely connected

with Sewings. Photograph from South Kensington
Museum . . ... 6

4. Seventeenth-Century Italian Lace. Photograph from

South Kensington Museum . . . 7

5. Continuous Braid Pattern, with Fillings and Plaited

Net. Photograph from South Kensington Museum 10

6. Dutch Lace. Braid and ground worked in one across

the pattern . . . . . 12

7. Catherine of Aragon Lace . . . . 19

8. Lace made for Princess Royal when an Infant . 27

9. Draught for Parchment used for making Lace at the

Exhibition of 185 1 . . . . 28

10 & II. English Designs for Point Ground, earlier part of

nineteenth century . . . . 42

12. Maltese Lace made in the Midlands . . . 46

13. Lace now made at Paulers Pury . ■ • 59

14. Modern Lace made at East Haddon after old Italian

Style . . . ... 67

15. Lace in Italian Style, made by C. C. Channer . . 68

16. Design for Lace Fan, by M. E. Roberts . . . 79

LACE-MAKING

IN THE MIDLANDS

I

SKETCH OF THE PROGRESS OF
LACE-MAKING IN EUROPE

The history of lace-making is the history of
an art. A piece of lace is an artistic composi-
tion expressed in twisted thread, just as a piece
of wood-carving is the expression of the artist's
idea in chiselled wood. Lace is not, like em-
broidery, an ornamented fabric ; it is itself
ornament. It is not the application of art to
a craft ; the whole pattern is the fabric, and
the fabric is the pattern. It is this peculiarity
that distinguishes lace from needlework and
from woven-work.

The art is a comparatively modern one. No
trace of it can be found on ancient monuments
or in early records ; the term " old lace " is

B

2 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

a relative term, for before the sixteenth century
nothing that we should call "lace" existed.

It was about the close of the seventeenth
century that lace reached perhaps its highest
point as a vehicle for the expression of artistic
ideas. About the middle of the sixteenth
century pattern -books began to be published,
and it was the effort to carry out the ideas of
the designers of patterns which perfected the
craft of lace-making. In form, in line, in
composition, the patterns belonging to the best
periods of lace- making are among the most
perfect works that artistic design can show.

Without good design lace becomes worthless
rubbish, like a picture without drawing.

In seeking to discover the origin of the art we
find two distinct but equally important sources.
The first is the ornamentation of linen by means
of drawn-thread work and cut-work ; the second
is the twisting of threads into narrow ornamen-
tal braids, known as lace or " purling."

Drawn -thread work, at least in its simpler
forms, is familiar to most people. When very
fine and elaborate it has much the same effect
as a closely -worked piece of lace. Cut- work,
or Greek lace as it is sometimes called, is less
familiar. It is formed by cutting out in linen
patterns, usually geometrical, and then closely
button -holing over the threads which remain.

LACE-MAKING IN EUROPE 3

Take away the linen foundation from the drawn-
thread work and from the cut -work and you
have a true needlepoint lace.

The second source of which I spoke is
purling. Purling was a method of plaiting
threads into a little looped edging, and the
little loops so often to be found at the edge
of lace are still called "purls." Purling is
mentioned in the Canterbury Tales, and it was
much used in the fifteenth century as an orna-
mental edging.

Other edgings called lace were also made.
We should now call them fancy braid, but we
still use the old word when we speak of " gold
lace."

" Purling " and " lace " are pillow lace in
embryo; but pillows, bobbins, and pins were
not yet invented. These old lace-makers placed
their balls of thread in a man's hand, using his
fingers as pegs to assist in the plaiting and
twisting. By employing two men fifteen or
twenty threads could be used at once. What
a laborious method of obtaining so small a
result, we think, as we lightly hang our hundred
or more bobbins on to the modern pin !

The early pin was large, and was made of
boxwood or bone, not well adapted for lace-
making. Their manufacture rapidly improved,
and though they remained expensive articles

4 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

of luxury they were, to a certain extent, in
common use about the latter part of the six-
teenth century. It was about this period that
pillow lace-making commenced.

With the use of pin and pillow the early
edgings became elaborated into something
more like modern lace edgings, and they were
probably made in England, as well as in Italy,
Flanders, and other countries. A modern
torchon edging is not unlike the Italian edging
of the sixteenth century, as the use for such
simple ornament has not passed away.

Before proceeding to describe the further
progress of lace-making we must draw par-
ticular attention to this method of twisting
threads into a pattern to form an edging, as
we shall frequently need to refer to it again.

We notice that it is an outcome of the fancy
braid, and that there is no distinction between
pattern and ground. The pattern can easily
be pricked out on lines at an angle of 45° drawn
on the parchment.

The threads are kept in place by means of
pins, and are continuous ; that is to say, each
thread can be traced zigzagging through the
whole length of the lace and lace-work, across
the width of the edging from side to side, just
as one would plait a dozen strands of straw.
I shall in future term this method "working

LACE-MAKING IN EUROPE s

across the pattern," in order to distinguish it
from the method of following the separate lines
of the pattern which we shall find in some of
the elaborate pillow laces.

In describing the edgings we have wandered
far from the ornamental linen-work which we
mentioned as one of the sources of the art of
lace-making.

Though this book deals with pillow lace, and
the linen-work of Italy was more immediately
the parent of needlepoint lace, it is none the
less important to us. Needlepoint and pillow
lace were developed side by side, first in Italy
and Flanders, and afterwards in France. The
same lace-making districts often produced both
needlepoint and pillow work ; the same patterns
often serve for either. Many pillow stitches are
imitations of needle stitches ; without the in-
fluence of needlepoint it seems likely that
purling and lace-making would never have
progressed beyond the making of narrow fancy
edgings.

It will be interesting to trace the evolution
of the various kinds of pillow lace, the inter-
dependent development of pattern, stitch, and
method. This evolution we will regard as being
entirely independent of the art of making the
simple edgings already explained.

In the oldest Italian or Flemish lace of any

6 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

importance we find that the foundation of the
fabric is a braid or tape. This braid, made with
bobbins and pins on a pillow, takes the place of
the button-holing which forms the solid part
of needlepoint lace ; it follows the curves and
lines of the pattern, and the various turns and
curves are connected by means of " sewings."

The sewing, as now practised by Honiton
and Brussels lace-workers, is formed by catching
a thread through a pinhole in an adjacent piece
of braid and passing another thread through
the loop thus formed. In this way a pattern
worked in separate narrow lines is all joined
into a homogeneous whole. Sometimes, instead
of the braids being closely united, two threads
are twisted, or four threads are plaited, into a
little bar or " bride," fastened with a sewing into
a part of the pattern at some distance and then
carried back into the braid. These brides or
connecting bars are a marked feature of some
needlepoint lace, though of course here they
are made in quite a different manner.

The manner in which the braid is carried
round the curves is extremely ingenious, and
very superior to the later methods of Honiton
and Brussels workers. By working partly
across the braid and then returning to the
outer edge of the curve a kind of wedge can
be formed, which brings the work round flat

LACE-MAKING IN EUROPE 7

without any apparent thickening of the material.
There are many old patterns, hke the illustra-
tions, in which the lines of the pattern are
continuous, but this is not necessary. By end-
ing a braid and beginning another in a different
part of the parchment, by cutting off bobbins
or adding them, in order to alter the width of
the lines, any pattern published by the designers
could be followed. Many fancy stitches, some
taken from the edging laces, were used to vary
the monotony of the plain braid, and purls like
the purling of the fourteenth century could be
worked along its edge.

While needlepoint lace was first confined to
geometrical patterns, the braid lent itself to
curves, and pillow lace may have for a time led
the way in the improvement of patterns. In
the seventeenth century patterns for both kinds
of lace developed rapidly; from curves and
scrolls we go on to stems, leaves, and flowers,
and even animals and men appear — beautiful
little drawings worked out in lace.

Needlepoint lace, instead of consisting only
of solid work and brides, begins to show
"fillings-in" or "modes" — delicate open-work
stitches which form the centres of flowers, etc.

Pillow lace was not left behind. It was a
simple matter to curve a braid into the form
of a flower ; then, by means of sewings, threads

8 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

could be attached to the edge of the braid and
the flower centre filled with open-work stitches
to rival the modes of the needlepoint.

Perhaps it will be as well to remark, in pass-
ing, that about this time needlepoint workers
sometimes used a plain pillow braid, and, sewing
it on to their patterns, joined and ornamented
it with their stitches, thus saving themselves
the labour of working the solid part of their
pattern.

This kind of work was revived in this century,
and was known among lady fancy-workers as
" point lace." The work was often beautifully
done, and the patterns good, but it is always
inferior in effect to genuine needlepoint lace or
to pillow lace of the same style. The pleats
and gatherings in the braid are a great blemish.

In the middle of the seventeenth century
lace with a net ground appears. Hitherto,
though patterns had become elaborate, and
fillings were common, and the variety of stitch
in pUlow lace was marvellous, the net ground
was unknown. We must also remind ourselves
that there was no " working across the pattern "
in real " point," or lace as we should now call it.
Every line of the pattern was followed sepa-
rately, the various parts of the work being
connected by sewings.

Flemish lace began to be extremely fine, and

LACE-MAKING IN EUROPE 9

with the fine thread the necessity for the careful
turning of the curves ceased, and the method
was gradually forgotten. Though we see less
of the absolutely continuous line, patterns re-
mained of a continuous scrolling nature ; it was
the introduction of net which helped to cut
patterns up till lace ceased to be a pattern and
became an arrangement of separate sprigs on
a net ground.

The use of braid had at first suggested con-
tinuous lines, but it was soon found possible to
work a single leaf by the same method, attach
it to a stem, cut off the bobbins, and begin again
elsewhere with another leaf or flower.

With the introduction of lace-making into
other European countries came further develop-
ments. It seems that when the art is intro-
duced into a new home it never remains the
same, but always becomes in some way charac-
teristic of its new sphere ; so that we find
Italian lace, Belgian lace, French lace, English
lace, all perfectly distinct from one another.
Fine Flemish lace introduced into Devonshire
becomes the characteristic Honiton lace, and
the lace of Lille and Valenciennes, imitated
in the Midlands, becomes the Buckinghamshire
point.

A symmetrical arrangement of brides and
the open-work fillings no doubt led to the

lo LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

invention of net, which appears both in needle-
point and pillow lace.

The illustration shows the earliest form of
pillow net. The pattern is worked first, then
threads are attached to the edge of the braid
and the ground is covered with net. This
stitch is an extremely intricate one when com-
pared to the modern Buckinghamshire "point
ground," but it is not to be wondered at when
it is understood that this net can be worked
without the help of a single pin or so much as
a line drawn on the parchment. The Midland
lace-maker of to-day, unaccustomed to any but
her own methods, is astonished and sceptical on
hearing of net without pins ; but in the early
seventeenth century pins were not cheap, and
the idea of keeping a twisted net in place by
means of a forest of pins was undreamed of.
Instead of twists, every side of this mesh is
composed of four plaited threads ; one couple
is carried through from mesh to mesh to keep
all firm and in place. Much must depend in
such work on skill of hand and eye, and it is
a slow, laborious stitch, but there is a fascina-
tion in the shaping of those hexagons which is
wanting to the mechanical twisting of thread
and sticking of endless pins.

As the seventeenth century proceeds, net
grounds become commoner, and endless varieties

KtG. 5
CONTINUOUS BRAID PATTERN WITH FILLINGS AND PLAITED NET

LACE-MAKING IN EUROPE ii

appear, but the mesh is always plaited, not
twisted.

By the time we reach the beginning of the
eighteenth century we can associate a particular
mesh with a particular lace-making district ;
the net is simpler, and begins to require immense
numbers of pins.

Lace is now finer, and is worked in narrower
widths than was the old Italian and Flemish
lace. The patterns become much more de-
tached. The lace of Mechlin and of Brussels, the
ground of which is very similar, continues to
be worked in pieces, the pattern first and
the ground afterwards, but a very remarkable
change is seen in the Valenciennes lace and in
various French laces. This change is shown
in a piece of lace in the South Kensington
Museum marked as Dutch. It closely resembles
Flemish lace with a net ground, but the ground
is worked at the same time as the pattern ;
that is to say, threads are brought out of the
pattern to form the net and carried back again
into the pattern, so that the threads do not
follow the lines of the pattern, but come in and
out of it as convenient. In fact, the lace is
worked like an edging on a large scale. Such
a method requires an enormous number of pins,
because every thread must be kept in place till
the whole width of the pattern is worked. In

12 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

the older method the twisted edge of the
finished pattern was Hke the selvedge of a piece
of woven material, and pins could quickly be
moved forward to the point where the work was
proceeding. By the old method it was almost
as easy to work a piece of lace half a yard
wide as a piece three inches wide. It was only
a matter of time ; the line was followed curve
by curve and would never be of great width or
need a very large number of bobbins.

It is easy to see how Flemish patterns led
to the new plan. They are characterised by
a peculiar flatness and closeness ; lines are often
marked in the plain work by means of little
rows of twists in the working threads. It was
seen that if an outline could be marked by
twisted threads the same principle might be
applied to the whole pattern ; it might all be
worked in one, the twisting of the threads out-
lining the design. There are some pieces of
lace in the South Kensington Museum, labelled
"Fausse Valenciennes," which show the progress
of this method. They have the flat look of
Valenciennes lace; there is very little distinction
between pattern and ground — in fact, there is
no true ground, the small space between the
different parts of the pattern being covered
with a filling-in. Valenciennes lace has to
this day retained a simulation of the twisted

LACE-MAKING IN EUROPE 13

selvedge edge of the braid, each part of the
pattern being surrounded by simulated pin-
holes. In the lace of Lille we find the attempt
to imitate the braid edge frankly abandoned;
the pattern is kept distinct from the ground
by running a thick white thread called a "gimp"
round it. This gimp, which appears in Bucking-
hamshire lace, must not be confounded with the
raised " cordonnet " which sometimes outlines
the pattern in Brussels lace. The cordonnet,
or "raised work," of Honiton lace is merely
used to give boldness and relief, whereas the
gimp is an essential part of a point -ground
pattern " worked all across " the parchment.

During the eighteenth century fine pillow
laces with net grounds reached their highest
point of excellence, and began to be imitated
by various kinds of embroidery on machine-
made net known as "tambour work" and
" Limerick lace."

During the nineteenth century the finest and
best laces have made but little progress, but
there has been a remarkable development of the
torchon edgings. In almost every European
country a great deal of heavy linen lace is
made for the ornamentation of household linen.
These laces are usually of geometrical design
and are improvements on the old lace edgings,
much having been learnt both in the way

14 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

of workmanship and design from the true
pillow points.

In the nineteenth century, then, we find a
curious assimilation of the lace edging with
the " point " or " passement," and we apply the
same word " lace " to all ornamental fabrics
of twisted and plaited thread. Let us briefly
recapitulate the various steps by which this has
been brought about.

Under the influence of needlepoint the orna-
mental braid was curved and shaped into a
pattern, the various lines of the pattern being
connected by sewings. The pattern became
more shaped and elaborated, the brides be-
came more ornamental and a more important
part of the lace, ornamental fillings were intro-
duced, and the work became, not a curved
braid, but an arrangement of flowers and leaves
— at first conventional, afterwards naturalistic.
Then the net ground becomes general, and
early in the eighteenth century some laces
began to be worked all in one — pattern and
ground as one fabric, without joins. It was
now worked like a wide edging, a great many
pins and a great many bobbins being employed.
The only difference remaining was that the edg-
ing usually retained the geometrical pattern with
the homogeneousness of pattern and ground ;
it still showed its character as an ornamental

LACE-MAKING IN EUROPE 15

braid of interlaced threads. Even when a real
point ground is so narrow as to be used as
an edging its character is still obvious, and it
cannot be confounded with a torchon edge.

In this short history of lace-making the aim
has been not to give a history of the various
lace centres, with a classification of lace by its
place-name, but to show how the fabric itself
grew into being and changed in nature, whether
in Italy, France, or England. It is desired to
show how a classification might be made, accord-
ing to pattern and method of working, which
would be of great use and interest to the lace-
maker. Unfortunately there is a great lack of
suitable technical terms for such a purpose.

The old place-names, such as Valenciennes,
Brussels, or Lille, are of great value and interest,
because they do indicate a special method and
style ; but for the earliest lace, which was much
the same in Italy or Flanders, and probably in
some other countries, and for modern lace, the
system of place-names is most confusing and
tiresome. Improved torchon lace is now made
in Italy, Germany, Austria, Belgium, Switzer-
land, and England — in fact, almost all over
Europe ; patterns are carried from place to place,
and there is little difference in the workmanship.
Any lace may be made in any district — in point
of fact, lace very like Brussels is made in Italy.

1 6 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

Something has been done of recent years to
revive the manufacture of the finer and more
important pillow laces. There is now a certain
demand for copies of beautiful old lace, but it
has not become a living, thriving industry.
There can be no great sale for lace as a work
of art as long as it is only an imitation.

The lace makers and designers of old were
real artists, and their patrons were willing to
spend great sums of money on lace. The
small sums of money paid for the very best
lace now make it useless for the artist to give
his attention to the design, or for the lace-maker
to put her best and most careful work into the
execution of that wonderful web of plaited
thread which some of us still love, and which
unfailingly brings to its workers many happy
and peaceful hours of never-wearying occupation.

II

THE PROGRESS OF LACE-MAKING IN ENG-
LAND, WITH SPECIAL REFERENCE TO
THE MIDLAND COUNTIES

In the preceding chapter we have roughly-
traced the evolution of lace-making in Europe ;
we must now seek to discover, in equally rough
outline, the place which England holds among
the lace-making nations. This place is by no
means so unimportant as is sometimes repre-
sented, though the English love of French
fashions has to a certain extent militated against
the popularity of the purely English. What-
ever difficulties in the way of good organisation
of the industry we may have had to contend
with, want of artistic feeling and originality
cannot fairly be laid to the charge of the
English lace-makers. Though often adopting
French ideas from the foreign lace imported,
in order to follow the foreign fashions, they
have never been mere copiers. English de-
signers, or drawers as they were called, have
produced some most graceful and beautiful
c 17

i8 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

designs, and English workers have shown great
dexterity in the adaptation of stitch and method
to design. The result of an attempt to copy
a foreign lace has usually been the production
of a new and individual style by a natural
process of development and artistic invention.
This rule has been noticeable in Maltese lace,
which in workmanship, texture, and design
became, in English hands, a very different
product from the original simple and rather
coarse lace of Malta.

If artistic feeling, as is sometimes said, is
shown in the workman's ornamentation of his
tools, England stands pre-eminent. An intense
pride in the ornamentation and arrangement of
her pillow has always been a remarkable cha-
racteristic of the Midland lace-maker. More
than 400 different patterns of decorated bobbins
have been collected, and doubtless many more
could be found.

In considering England's place as a lace-
making nation we must remember that in other
countries a great deal of the best lace was made
in convents, and that in England it was im-
possible to fill the place of the cultured ladies
to be found within the convent walls. The
convent was like a joint-stock company ; it had
capital both in money and in ability; it was
also a most convenient centre for the teaching

LACE-MAKING IN ENGLAND 19

of art and craftsmanship ; and it had a com-
manding position as a commercial house. It
was manufacturer, merchant, capitalist, and
instructor all at the same time. The decline
of convents in England left the lace industry
with but little capital and organisation ; and
both teaching and design generally remained in
the hands of a few families who understood it
and in which it was handed down from genera-
tion to generation.

Needlepoint, which requires more delicate
skill of hand and eye than does pillow lace, died
out entirely as an article of English manufac-
ture, though we know that it was made in
England in the sixteenth century; the making
of it was doubtless taught in the convents.
There is a tradition in the Midlands that Queen
Catherine of Aragon worked hard to encourage
it in the villages, and that she introduced new
patterns. It is possible that she tried to teach
pillow lace also, for there is a pattern made in
Northamptonshire, very like what we should call
an old Italian pattern (merely meaning that it
is an early form of pillow lace), which is called
Queen Catherine's pattern. There is no other
Midland lace like it. It is said that she bade
her ladies burn their lace that they might buy
of the poor English workers. Probably want
of encouragement and good technical instruction

20 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

caused the industry to die out after her death.
England was soon plunged into the Puritan
abyss which almost killed art. We spoke in
our previous chapter of the purling mentioned
by Chaucer, and of the lace edgings which
suggested the use of pillow and bobbins for the
true " point." These edgings were extensively
made in England, and were known as " bone
lace." The word " lace " would not have been
applied to the wide points which were the
rivals of needlepoint.

In Twelfth Night Shakespeare shows his
familiarity with the sight of lace-makers —

"Duke. O fellow, come, the song we had last night :
Mark it, Cesario, it is old and plain :
The spinsters and the knitters in the sun,
And the free maids that weave their thread with bones,
Do use to chaunt it."

About 1662 Flemish workers were brought to
England to teach their superior kind of lace.
The industry took root in Devonshire and
became the famous Honiton lace. This must
have seemed to the bone-lace makers a very
new and different kind of work from the
weaving of their edgings. Honiton lace soon
developed a style of its own, but though much
beautiful Honiton work has been done the
design is often poor. It is curious that Midland
lace has never suffered from this poverty of

LACE-MAKING IN ENGLAND 21

design ; it was not so far from the great trade
routes, it is more adaptable to any form of
pattern, and it requires greater technical skill to
make a point-ground (Buckinghamshire) parch-
ment. Any good design, either conventional or
naturalistic, can be worked in point-ground lace,
but some styles are impossible in Honiton lace.
On the other hand, within certain limits, Honiton
lace is a better means of expression, and it is
much easier to make the parchments. This last
fact tempts persons with little powers of draught-
manship to make their own parchments, whereas
the point-ground design must be left in the
hands of the professional.

We have seen that needlepoint spread more
quickly in Europe than pillow point. Honiton
lace must have been one of the earliest of the
transplanted pillow points. Next in point of
time must have come French pillow laces, and
then Buckinghamshire point. This lace shows
French influence ; it is worked all in one across
the pattern, like a French lace ; the selvedge
edge to the pattern has been replaced by a
gimp ; the net is not of an early character,
being a twisted net dependent on pins ; none
of it can be earlier than the eighteenth century.
Some of the parchments are very like Valen-
ciennes parchments, though we find no trace
of the Valenciennes ground or the simulated

22 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

"pin-holes." The introduction of this kind of
lace greatly influenced the bone-lace makers,
and gave rise, especially in Northamptonshire,
to the manufacture of many charming little
point-ground edgings, which, while sometimes
remaining geometrical in design, resembled in
workmanship the wide-point grounds of Bucks.
Maltese lace, introduced in this century, is
a development of an edging founded on patterns
of interlacing circles instead of the more usual
intersecting straight lines.

Ill

LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS DURING
THE EIGHTEENTH AND NINETEENTH
CENTURIES

"The pattern grows, the well-depicted flower,
Wrought patiently into the snowy lawn,
Unfolds its bosom : buds and leaves and sprigs.
And curling tendrils gracefully dispos'd,
Follow the nimble fingers of the fair —
A wreath that cannot fade of flowers that blow
With most success when all besides decay."

COWPER.

The poet Cowper, living at Olney, the centre
of one of the best lace-making districts, was
familiar with the fine point-grounds of graceful
flowery design, and his poetic muse was not
neglectful of the lace-makers. The greater
part of Buckinghamshire, Northamptonshire,
part of Bedfordshire, and a little bit of Oxford-
shire, form the lace-making district of the
Midlands. These counties have always sup-
ported textile industries of one form or another,
with a leaning towards dainty manufactures
such as ribbons, straw-plaiting, or lace-making.
Many Northamptonshire villages now given
23

Missing Page

26 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

quantity of foreign material. What must have
been their disgust and alarm on hearing that
three days before the wedding the King had
sent his custom-officers to the Court milliner to
carry off the prohibited goods. But a lesson
had been learnt, for on His Majesty's birthday
the Court appeared in garments of strictly
British make.

The fluctuations in the lace industry have
always been remarkable, the scale of prices
rising and falling in a bewildering and astonish-
ing manner : at one time we hear of lace-makers
earning £i a. week, at another time but 3^^. or 4^-.

In 1780 the trade seems to have fallen into a
bad condition ; for Cowper, enclosing a petition
to Lord Dartmouth in favour of lace-makers,
declares that " Hundreds in this little town
(Olney) are upon the point of starving, and the
most unremitting industry is barely sufficient to
keep them from it."

For many years Cowper's house was used as
a lace school under the management of Mrs.
Langley, the wife of a former vicar ; about
forty workers were employed.

In 1785 an essay was published in the
Gentleman s Magazine dealing with the cause
of deformity among the lace-makers of Bucks
and Northants, and suggesting certain remedies
which have long since been adopted.

DURING i8th AND 19TH CENTURIES 27

As at the beginning of the eighteenth cen-
tury our laces owed much to France, so in
the nineteenth we received another impetus
from refugees who fled from the Revolution.
When war was declared and our ports were
closed against French goods, energetic buyers
undertook to supply the English market with
lace like that made in Normandy. The "French
ground " was introduced, which resembles what
is now known as " Point de Paris."

At Hanslope, in Bucks, 800 out of 1,275
inhabitants made lace, and a net profit of over
;£^8oo was yearly brought into the place. Those
were grand times for the lace-makers, both men
and women, many of them earning as much as
.^i IJ. per week ; but this state of things did
not last long, for the prices dropped when peace
was made.

Queen Victoria is the possessor of some
lovely English lace ; a small piece, made for
the Princess Royal when an infant, remains in
the possession of a lace-buyer at Olney, where
it was worked ; a photograph of it is shown on
the opposite page.

The exhibition of 185 1 brought about a
revival of the lace industry. The wife of the
lace-buyer above mentioned worked with one
or two others at the exhibition. The pillows
were covered for the occasion with blue velvet

28 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

edged with rose colour and with rose-coloured
bobbin bags. The lace worked by Mrs. Smith
from the pattern shown in the illustration took
the gold medal prize. The lace was exquisitely
fine, twenty slip thread being used, a degree
of fineness almost unknown at the present
day. It took three months to make one foot of
lace. Her Majesty the Queen, after watching
Mrs. Smith work, asked, as so many ladies ask
lace-makers, why her bobbins were of so many
different patterns : " Is it in order to tell which
of them should be turned over?" These
bobbins used in the presence of the Queen
have been carefully treasured, though Mr.
Smith has given many away to those who will
value them. Some are in the possession of
the authors. The few words uttered by Her
Majesty have been remembered and repeated
with ever-increasing interest through the years
that have passed, and the kindly notice given
by their sovereign marked the day as a red-
letter day to the Olney lace-makers.

A woman now living in Spratton remembers
the time when her mother, then living at
Creaton, made the lace worn by the Lady Sarah
Spencer at the wedding of the Princess of
Wales. She was but a child, but remembers
distinctly the lady coming on horseback now
and again to see how the lace was getting on.

DESIGN FUR BUCKS PILLOW LACE
WORKED DEFOKE THE QUEEN AT THE EXHICITJON OF I C5I

DURING i8th AND iqth CENTURIES 29

She does not remember the price of it, but
says that the money earned by her mother
for this special piece of lace bought them a
pony and trap, the first they had ever had.

About the close of the fifties Maltese lace
was introduced into the Midlands, and in many
places its manufacture unfortunately superseded
the old points. It is more quickly made and
will better bear the introduction of bad work
than will the point ground. Perhaps, though
much of it can have little claim to beauty,
it is not altogether bad that it should have
been introduced. It widened the ideas of the
lace-makers, suggesting new methods and ac-
customing them to turn their hands to any
kind of lace.

The last great outburst of prosperity was
in 1870, owing to the Franco-German War,
when lace-makers again earned splendid wages ;
but since then, until the present revival, with
the exception of a short rage for " yak " lace, it
had been at a very low ebb. In many villages
the industry was almost entirely abandoned,
and many workers had yards of beautiful lace
of which they were quite unable to dispose.

IV
LACE SCHOOLS

I SHOULD be sorry to outrage the suscepti-
bilities of my readers by suggesting that they
could recall the early part of this century, but
I am going to ask them if, in imagination only,
they will be so kind as to go back through
six or seven decades and visit with me one
or two of the lace schools which were then
scattered so thickly throughout the counties of
Beds, Bucks, and Northants.

The first one that we enter strikes us as stifl-
ing, in spite of the door and the two windows
being thrown open, and no wonder, for in that
cottage-room are gathered thirty pupils, varying
from six to sixteen years of age. The boys are
dressed like the village lads of to-day, except-
ing that instead of knickerbockers they all wear
trousers; but the girls have print frocks, low at
the neck and sleeves, and very short in the skirt,
from which peep white stockings and shoes, vary-
ing in neatness according to the disposition and
means of the parents. Some of the children
30

LACE SCHOOLS 31

are very small, not more than six years of
age.

They are sitting in rows, each little person
on his or her four-legged stool, with its pillow
resting against the three-legged stand in front
of it. Those pillows are dressed in dark blue,
and look as if they had tasted of the good
things in life, so round are they, and fat, and
heavy ; indeed, when they carry them, the
younger children's arms will hardly meet round
them, and their little feet stagger under the
weight.

In front of the thirty stools is a desk at
which, in her majesty, is enthroned the teacher.
But for the addition of spectacles and a kerchief
she is dressed like the elder girls ; by her side
lies her sceptre, that all-powerful sceptre, her
cane. Every hour she goes her rounds from
pillow to pillow, and woe betide the luckless
pupil whose work is badly done !

As the children turn the bobbins over and
over, they sing doggerel verses called "tells,"
sticking pins as fast as their little fingers can
plant them ; at every tenth pin they call out
the number, and so the room is full of counting.
Now they have taken sides, and are going to
" strive," or race each other, to see which can
stick the greater number of pins in a given
time. To escape the cane they have to put

32 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

in ten pins a minute, or 600 an hour ; but as
the race grows in excitement many of them
get in between 700 to 800, while we grow
giddy at the sight, and at the sound of the
ceaseless " clack, clack " of the bobbins.

It is nearly dinner-time. All but quite the
little ones have been there since six o'clock ;
they are beginning to grow fidgety — visions of
pie, cheese, and cake float over the parchments.
At last comes the welcome news that "time's
up." Each child covers over its pillow, turns its
four-legged stool upside down, places the pillow
in it, and runs off laughing and shouting, with
the girls' straw or paste-board bonnets and bare
necks gleaming in the sunshine.

All but a little girl of seven. She is scrupu-
lously clean, but very small and delicate — a
sweet little child, with long, fair hair hanging
down her back in two tidy plaits. Her blue
eyes, and very blue they are, just now are
filled with tears ; but the little white face is set
in order to keep them from brimming over and
spoiling her lace. She is faint and weak from
one of those sick headaches to which poor
children are so often subject. She has had
nothing to eat since early morning, and, like
all the others, excepting a few learners, has
been working since six o'clock. As it neared
the dinner-hour her spirits had revived, for had

LACE SCHOOLS 33

she not brought hers with her, and was it not
now in the oven ? Such a dinner too, goose-
berry tart with sugar ! Suddenly she had
found herself on the floor, knocked down by
the rough iist of her teacher. " I'll wake you !
If you don't choose to work with the others,
you'll have to stop in while they play."

At one o'clock the others troop in again and
pack themselves in, row behind row, and work
goes on as before, only the room grows hotter,
and the "clack, clack" of the bobbins more
monotonous. We wonder how the children can
keep their attention. For the most part they sit
very upright ; for has not mother told them
again and again that if they stoop over their
work they will get hunchbacked ?

Now and again a child falls short of pins,
and goes "a-begging." Stopping before a likely
giver, it sings " Mary Ann " (or whatever the
name may be), "a pin for the poor; give me one,
and I'll ask you no more." In this way it
generally gathers for itself a nice little store.

Tea-time comes. Out run the children for
half an hour ; but the little figure by the
window sits on, for her task is not done.

From five to six is a quiet time; you can
hear a pin drop, for the children are working
for dear life, many with aching backs and
through a mist of tears. They know that if

D

34 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

when "time's up" is called they should be but
five pins behind they will be kept in another
hour.

It is over, and the room is empty of all save
three or four ; but among them is the child
by the window. She has had twelve hours
of it ; she is only seven, and suffering from
want of food and a sick headache.

With a sigh we turn to watch the others, and
hope that they now, after so many hours of
hard work, are free to skip and play hop-scotch
like their little grandchildren of to-day. But
no ; for many of them learning is not yet over :
they are going to the night-school, where
wearily they will pick up enough of reading to
make in after life their leisure a blessing to
them rather than a curse.

An hour later we pass a little blue-eyed child
sobbing piteously. She has just been released
from her work, and is holding in her arms her
much-longed-for gooseberry tart ; but alas ! it
is burnt to a cinder. She is an old woman
now, but the memory of that disappointment
is still fresh to her.

It is on a winter's evening that we visit our
next school. As we enter we can make out
some sixteen girls from the ages of seven to
twenty, and we notice that they are all working

LACE SCHOOLS 35

by the light of one tallow candle. The little
ones went home when it grew dark, and those
who are left are mostly good workers.

In the centre of the room stands the four-
legged candle-stool as high as an ordinary table.
The top, which is called the "hole-board," is
pierced by a hole in the centre and four
others round it. In the middle hole is fixed a
long stick with a socket for the candle at the
top and peg-holes through the side, so that
it can be raised and lowered at will. In the
other four holes there are placed wooden cups,
into each of which fits a flask made of very
thin glass and filled with water. These flasks
act as strong condensers or lenses. The girls
sit diagonally, four to each bottle, those in
the second and third circle having the better
light.

The room, though stuffy, is cold, for, being so
full, the fire has to be kept low. We wonder
why the girls do not shiver more, for they are
clad like their predecessors in print dresses, and
from their low sleeves and large white collars
gleam their bare necks and arms.

As usual they are singing. This time it is
a "tell" that would be useful for all lace-workers
to learn : " Do your stitch, stick your pin, and
do your stitch about it." Indeed, it is for want
of this "stitch about the pin" that so many

36 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

workers' lace is faulty. Then they strike up
another.

While they are singing, we will ask the
teacher to tell us a little about the school, and
to show us some of the lace they have made,
and which is waiting to be taken to the lace-
buyer, who lives in the neighbouring town.

When a little child joins the school she is
usually six or seven, but sometimes one is taken
who is a year or so younger. If she is sharp,
she will be about three weeks learning her first
little edging ; during that time she pays is. a
week, and afterwards ^d. in the summer, and 4^.
during the winter (this varies a little in different
schools, as do the hours of working). For the
first six months she generally puts in only nine
hours a day, but after that at least ten, with the
exception of Saturday, which is a half-holiday.
The winter hours are usually from eight to
eight, allowing two hours for meals, but many
work an hour or so longer. Every Saturday
the teacher takes the lace to the buyer, and
gives the girls the exact amount that they have
earned, deducting only the 3^. or 4d. a week
for the use of the room and lights. If they
sell their work to a private customer, they are
allowed to charge la?. a yard more.

Then she shows us what they have made.
First there is the little edging upon which the

LACE SCHOOLS 37

new-comers are started ; it is called " the town
trot." After that we see an array of the
sweetest baby-laces, the narrowest being only
•^d. a yard. Many of them are made up on the
daintiest of baby-caps ; for in those days babies
began their lives in a staid and respectable
manner, even wearing their caps under their
hoods when they went out. Round the border of
a cap ran one or two rows of narrow lace, plain
or closely quilted in tiny box-pleats, while in the
centre there is a lace " round " or " horseshoe,"
often exquisite in design and workmanship.
Here is one set off by narrow loops of white
satin ribbon. Then there are a set of cambric
handkerchiefs and full-grown nightcaps, edged
with the "heart" and "oak-leaf" patterns. After
we have admired and wondered, she fetches a
large wooden box, out of which she brings
some truly lovely designs in rich lace handker-
chiefs, parasol-covers, veils, etc. She tells us
that the girls at her school usually earn, after
deducting what they pay her, 2s. ^d. a week.

But you must not think that the teacher
gives us this information all at once, for she
constantly leaves us to inspect the workers.
Sometimes she remarks to a girl, " I'll wake
you ! you've been asleep ! " and wake her she
does by a smart hit of her cane across the bare
shoulders.

38 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

Just then a knock comes at the door — a
father has come for his lass. It is a pity that
there are not more like him, for the girls turned
out into the darkness will find rough lads wait-
ing round the corners for some of them, and so,
hardly through their own fault, many come to
sorrow.

It is St. Thomas's Day. The children are
assembled ; row behind row they are sitting,
with their fat pillows resting against the stands
before them. But by the look of repressed
excitement on every face, there is evidently
something about to happen. Presently the
teacher leaves the room on the pretence of
getting a parchment. In a minute the girl
nearest the door has sprung up and bolted it;
the pillows are put on one side, and an in-
describable hubbub ensues. When the teacher
returns she shakes the door violently, demand-
ing to be let in ; but the answer comes from
thirty voices, " It's St. Thomas's Day ; give us
a half-holiday, and we'll let you in." For five
minutes or so she stands outside grumbling and
knocking, and then, finding that the children
have turned the stools against her, she (not un-
willingly, perhaps) gives in. The holiday is
promised, the door is opened, and she walks in
as the children rush out. As we watch them
laughing and shouting, we think that it is a pity

LACE SCHOOLS 39

that custom should have fixed their holiday for
one of the dullest and certainly the shortest of
the days in the year.

" Are there any other days that you are
turned out of your own school ? " we ask the
teacher.

" No ; but they generally manage to work
half-time on St. Andrew's Day."

"And what do they do with the other half? "

" Oh, have tea in the schoolroom," she
answers grimly. " It is the young folk who
are spoilt nowadays."

After that we leave her to her pillow, with
the click-clack of her bobbins sounding mourn-
fully through the now deserted room.

V

LACE-MAKERS AT HOME

" Yon cottager, who weaves at her own door,
Pillow and bobbins all her little store ;
Content though mean, and cheerful if not gay.
Shuffling her thread about the livelong day —
Just earns a scanty pittance, and at night
Lies down secure, her heart and pocket light."

COWPER.

Having visited the lace schools, I will ask
my readers if they will bear with me while
I tell them a little about the workers of this
century in their own homes. A child was
often introduced to her pillow at three years
old by her mother, and then, when she had
learnt how to handle her bobbins, she was sent
off to the lace school, where she would stay
until she either went into service or was
married ; or, if she wished to save the expense
of the '^d. or /\d. a week, she would work in
her own home. In those days, especially in
one part of the Midlands, nearly every cottager,
married or single, sat at her pillow ; for it was
40

LACE-MAKERS AT HOME 41

usually only farmers' or tradesmen's daughters
who thought of going to service.

Whatever may be said of the " good old
days," the results were most disastrous, not
only to their health, but also to their morals ;
indeed, a lady, who is interested in a certain
Midland village, tells me that although it was
sad to see an old industry dying out, yet she
was only too thankful when bad work and
bad prices made it necessary for the girls to
desert their pillows and go out into service.
In this chapter we will endeavour to show
how the present revival of the trade has been
obtained without the slightest risk either to
health or morals, and also how it is of benefit
to many hundreds of families.

At the time of the Queen's accession, as has
been said, the trade was very flourishing, and
it was found that a man could earn more
at lace-making than in the fields, where his
wages would be from "js. to 8j. a week, while
at his pillow he could make 9^. or los. In
those days, then, the workers, men and women,
would sit side by side in each other's houses,
in order to save firing. In the winter they had
to sit very near to the windows, which did not
give as much light as they do now, and it
was often bitterly cold. In some parts, to
keep themselves warm, they used a " dicky

42 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

pot " ; this was made of rough brown ware,
glazed, and filled with embers begged from
the bread oven of a well-to-do neighbour.

In print we often find mention of deformity
and disease among lace-workers. These were
greatly due, first, to the overcrowding of the
schools, and secondly, to the constrained posi-
tion necessarily adopted by men, women, and
even babies, in order to see their work. No
wonder, then, that a certain little boy in Bucks,
one day growing disgusted, made away with his
pillow down a well !

The patterns were usually designed and
pricked either by lace-buyers, superior workers,
or those brought up specially to that part of
the trade, many of the designs, especially some
drawn at Olney, being very lovely. (See Figs.
10 and II.)

Here I should like to insert an account of the
keeping of St. Catherine's Day, which was long
held as a holiday both by lace-makers and
weavers in parts of the Midlands. Its origin
is probably far older than the time of Catherine
of Aragon, but very possibly, being her fete-day,
it has since been held in special honour by lace-
makers, as tradition points to that queen as the
introducer of the craft. If so, it was one certainly
very different from the present pillow -work,
being probably an adaptation of needlepoint.

DESIGN FOR CENTRE OF BADGE CAP

DESIGN FOR FINE BfCKS LACE MADE AT OLNEY
EARLY 19TH CEKTUKV

LACE-MAKERS AT HOME 4.3

I am indebted for the following account to
Mrs. Orlebar, of Hinwick House:—

" Cattern Tea. — In Podington and neighbour-
ing villages the lace-makers have, within the
memory of middle-aged people, ' kept Cattern '
on December 6th— St. Catherine's Day (Old
Style). I believe it was Catherine of Aragon
who used to drink the waters of a mineral
spring in Wellingborough, and who (as is sup-
posed) introduced lace-making into Beds. The
poor people know nothing of the Queen, only
state that it was an old custom to keep
' Cattern.'

" The way was for the women to club together
for a tea, paying 6d. apiece, which they could
well afford when their lace brought them in Sj.
or 6s. a week.

"The tea-drinking ceremony was called 'wash-
ing the candle -block,' but this was merely an
expression. It really consisted in getting
through a great deal of gossip, tea, and
Cattern cakes — seed cakes of large size. Sugar
balls went round as a matter of course. After
tea they danced, just one old man whistling
or fiddling for them, and 'they enjoyed their-
selves like queens I '

"The entertainment ended with the cutting
of a large apple pie, which they divided for

44 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

supper. Their usual bedtime was about eight
o'clock.

" An old rhyme is still extant about Cattern.
I cannot recover more than these lines : —

" 'Rise, maids, arise !
Bake your Cattern pies !
Bake enough, and bake no waste,
So that the old bell-man may have a taste ! ' "

VI

THE DECLINE OF THE LACE INDUSTRY

During the childhood of the now middle-aged
in our villages the lace industry was flourishing
and well paid ; ten years ago the trade was
almost extinct ; but one generation separates us
from the time when almost every child in the
village was " brought up to the pillow."

What was the cause of this sudden decline, of
this astounding change in village life ? Ask an
old lace-maker, and the reply will be, " Machine-
made lace " ; inquire a little further into the
subject, and the inadequacy of the answer will
strike you forcibly. The question is really a
most complex one ; it cannot be answered with-
out some consideration of the great social
changes which were taking place all over
England in the earlier part of our Queen's
reign. In this short book one cannot pretend
to answer it thoroughly and satisfactorily.

Let us first try to understand in what way
machine-made lace did really affect the in-
dustry. It must be borne in mind that the
4S

46 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

disappearance of English pillow-made lace from
the market did not coincide in time with the
production of good machine work, and also
that we never ceased to import pillow lace from
abroad, and further that the present revival of
the pillow lace industry comes at a time when
imitation lace of good quality can be had at
very low prices.

Until the present century lace was essentially
an adjunct of the rich. It was costly, of fine
and intricate workmanship, and was prized
accordingly. The wealthy and the noble pos-
sessed it, the middle class had a little, the poor
did not aspire to lace at all. With the intro-
duction of machine lace the fabric became
common ; the imitation was eagerly bought
by those to whom the real thing had been
an unhoped-for luxury, and to them it seemed
almost as good and as beautiful. Many could
not even distinguish between the hand work
and the machine work.

A rage for cheap lace set in, and with it came
the introduction of Maltese, which was showy
and cheap compared to the point grounds.
Pillow lace tried to compete with machine lace
on its own ground, that of cheapness and showy
effectiveness. Until the public tired of Maltese
and coarse edgings the lace-makers did not
suffer — then the crash came. Machine lace

DECLINE OF THE LACE INDUSTRY 47

improved, imitations of the beautiful old laces
were produced; the public had not yet learnt
to distinguish the true from the false, and the
pillow lace-makers had all but forgotten how to
make good lace. In the race for cheapness
they had begun to use cheap cotton threads,
and to work in a slipshod manner. Prices fell
to a deplorable level, and lace-making came to
be hated as the most fearful drudgery. Only
a return to the good old lace and the good old
methods could save the industry ; it was found
impossible to turn out bad lace as cheaply and
as rapidly as the machine.

Some proof of the truth of these facts may be
gathered by noting the extraordinary difference
of opinion which exists among former lace-
makers as to the merits of the trade. An old
woman of seventy or eighty, whose memory
goes back to the flourishing day of the beautiful
point-ground lace, or half-stitch as it is some-
times called, will say, "Ah, I always loved my
pillow. I shall always love it ; I will work at it as
long as I can sit to it and see." " Give me a pair
of spectacles as I can see with," says another,
"and let me have my pillow; it's nice work."
" It's nice clean work," echoes another old body;
" why don't the young folk take to their pillows
now? we loved our pillows." In another cot-
tage we hear, "When I was a girl I spent all

48 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

my pocket-money on my pillow; I loved to
have it nice. I had some beautiful bobbins, bone
ones with beads on them and names, and my pins
had different-coloured heads. How we loved our
pillows, and what we would spend on them ! "
Now talk to a buxom widow of middle age :
" I hate it ; I burnt all my bobbins ; it's a bad
trade." "If you go lace-making," says another,
" you'll never have salt to your porridge."
" It's an awful trade, lace-making," we hear
from another; "you'll never make your fortune
at it. I always said none of my children should
be lace-makers." The explanation of the con-
trast is to be found in the fact that the middle-
aged remember the bad times, the cheap lace
and poor patterns, the fearful hurrying and
ceaseless work. The older women think of
the time when the work was beautiful and
good and a joy to do.

We cannot leave the subject of machine-
made lace without remarking the injurious
effect it has upon the public taste. When it
aims at imitating the work of the pillow, the
spurious showiness and perfection of it — the
likeness and yet unlikeness — palls when one
becomes accustomed to it, and may create a
distaste for the real thing, which, in contrast to
the imitation, never by itself tires the eye. This
difficulty is met by the manufacturers by a con-

DECLINE OF THE LACE INDUSTRY 49

stant change of fashion and style, the tawdriness
of the new fashion passing unnoticed. Machine
lace is at its best when it does not directly
imitate any pillow lace, when it takes an inde-
pendent place of its own, with suitable designs
made expressly for it. The distinction between
the real and the imitation is now much more
clearly understood than it was twenty years ago ;
the true place and use of each is recognised,
and, though real lace cannot regain the unique
position which it once held, it cannot now
be said to suffer from competition with the
machine.

The social change in village life had prob-
ably a far greater effect on the industry
than had the imitation lace. The small, self-
supporting community had become little more
than a colony of agricultural labourers. The
Parish Councils failed to restore the village life
because the old free population had departed
into the towns, the little village trades were
lost or merged in the great town manufactures.
The change came gradually, and as it came it
threw more and more power into the hands of
the landowner and tenant farmer, and it was
to their interest to discourage the village
industry and make the population entirely de-
pendent upon the land. We have many proofs
of what was done to bring contempt upon the

E

50 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

lace industry. Instead of any effort being made
to prevent evil in connection with the lace
schools the whole system was most unjustly
condemned. Farmers' wives still speak con-
temptuously of lace-making, and twelve or
fourteen years ago few of the landowners knew
or cared anything about the trade. People talk
of having sometimes bought a bit of lace from
some poor starving old woman, as if they had
performed a great act of charity, instead of
having got a fine piece of work for less than
half its value.

We asked a middle-aged woman for reminis-
cences of the lace school.

" I never went much to a lace school, though
of course I made lace. Our clergyman's wife
persuaded me to leave the lace school and come
to a school she had, to learn needlework."

No doubt there was much of this persuading
and much demonstration of the superiority of
needlework to lace, and the greater respect-
ability of the lady's school.

No one can do too much in the cause of true
education, but it was characteristic of the times
that the way to improve the girls should have
been the destruction of a beautiful craft. The
reform of the lace school was perhaps as neces-
sary as the reform of the factory. We know
more now of the merits of fresh air and space ;

DECLINE OF THE LACE INDUSTRY 51

but the teachers were not always tyrants, and
the best of our village population — the most
refined and clever and enterprising — spent their
childhood at their pillows.

The role of the former lace-makers numbers
National School teachers, shopkeepers, and the
wives of the higher rank of village artisans.
It can hardly be argued that the trade was the
enemy of education.

The Education Act dealt the final blow at
the lace industry. The school at Paulers Pury,
in Northants, was continued until after the
children were obliged to attend the National
School ; but it had to be abandoned, as the
teacher (who still makes lace) found that her
pupils were not able to do any good work after
the day's lessons were over. They were thus
left without technical training, everything being
given up for the sake of learning reading,
writing, and arithmetic.

At Paulers Pury the best point-ground work
had always been made — work which no machine
could rival, and which was always valuable;
and the direct effect of the Education Act and
of the changing social conditions is most clearly
seen.

The loss of the lace schools left the industry
without organisation and without capital and
without a fresh supply of trained workers.

52 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

After a bad period of idling at home, the girls
began to go out to service and to take the
place of the tradesmen's and farmers' daughters,
who were beginning to think domestic service
beneath them. To go out was now considered
a rise in the social scale, and so the contempt
in which lace-making was held increased.

In the next chapter we shall endeavour to
follow the turn of the tide which has resulted
in the revival of the old trade.

VII

REVIVAL OF THE LACE INDUSTRY

It has been felt for some time past that some-
thing must be done to prevent the utter stag-
nation of village life, and that to provide a
good school with nothing beyond but the work
on the land was to sow the seeds of discontent
and the mischief that comes of dulness. We
have been encouraging village entertainments
and holidays, village music, and, above all,
village industries. The Home Arts and In-
dustries Association for Northamptonshire,
under Miss Dryden's energetic influence, has
done wonders for the lace as well as for other
beautiful crafts. Other county exhibitions have
encouraged lace-making competitions, and it is
usually an important feature at the great annual
Home Arts and Industries Exhibition at the
Albert Hall.

Even before this great movement ladies were

beginning to interest themselves in the beautiful

but almost vanished craft of the Midland

counties. Old lace-makers who remembered

S3

5+ LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

how to make the delicate baby- laces of a
former generation were sought out and set to
work. Marvellous parchments for the old wide
half-stitch patterns, long thrown aside for the
coarse Maltese, were discovered and wondered
at. Harrowing tales were told of parchments
burnt, or boiled down to make glue, and of
bobbins used to light the fire. The inquiring
ladies, under the spell that lace seldom fails
to throw over its devotees, sought out good
threads and patterns, and eagerly bought up
good work.

A poor old widow, seventy-nine years of age,
when visited by one of the ladies who was
hunting up lace for " stock," in 1891, was found
to have hoarded up in a box i^s. worth of
lace, and was diligently working to add to her
store, hoping some day to be able to sell it.
When our visitor bought the boxful as it was
the tears of joy came into her eyes. She is
now eighty-seven years of age, and is still
making lace.

In almost every village something was done.
There was want of method, perhaps, and waste
of force, but it was an enthusiasm ; no one
believed at the time that there was any great
business possibility in the lace industry. An
attempt to bring order into the chaos resulted
in the formation of the " Midland Lace Associa-

REVIVAL OF THE LACE INDUSTRY 55

tion." A letter which appeared in the North-
ampton Daily Chronicle for January 12th, 1897,
explains the genesis of this Association : —

"lace association for the counties of NORTH-
AMPTON, BUCKINGHAM, AND BEDFORD : A SHORT
ACCOUNT OF ITS ORIGIN AND FORMATION.

"On February 3rd, 1891, an exhibition of needle-
work and pillow lace was held in Northampton, and
was opened by H.R.H. the Duchess of Teck. There
were 550 exhibits of pillow lace, all made in the
above counties. A large amount of prizes was
awarded to the poor lace-workers; indeed, so great
was the interest exhibited, and so large the quantity
of lace sold, that it seemed a pity to let the industry
die out (as it was fast doing) for want of encourage-
ment. A preliminary meeting was held in St. Giles's
Vicarage, and the scheme of the Lace Association
was drawn up. The Countess Spencer kindly con-
sented to act as president, with twelve vice-presidents,
and five ladies were appointed to act as a working
committee. There was also a general committee of
subscribers, whose subscriptions enabled the working
committee to buy in a stock of lace, and to meet the
expenses of postage, printing, etc.

" The objects of the Association were —

" I. To stimulate and improve the local manufac-
ture of lace.

" 2. To provide workers with greater facilities for
the sale of their work at more remunerative prices.

" 3. To provide instruction in lace-making.

" Wherever it was possible a lady correspondent

58 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

Honiton lace, of the heavy linen laces, as well
as being a good point-ground worker. The
Association beginning as it did, with far too
little capital (only £1$), was unable by itself
to carry on a business which developed so
rapidly as did the pillow-lace trade. The
ladies of the working committee, therefore,
dipped generously into their own pockets, and
added largely to the capital without seeking
for any return in the form of interest or profit.
This generous spending did not appear in the
accounts of the Lace Association, that business
being kept separate from the further individual
efforts of the ladies, though all worked har-
moniously together for its good. Through
stress of circumstances and from convenience,
and partly on account of Mrs. Roberts's near-
ness to Northampton, the work of the Associa-
tion proper fell mainly into her hands. She
bought and sold lace and thread and parch-
ments, superintending as no ordinary secretary
could have done, carrying on for no pecuniary
reward a business which filled the whole of the
working-day with arduous labour. It must be
remembered that lace teachers and prickers
were almost extinct, that good thread and pins
were difficult to obtain, that many of the
younger lace-makers had been trained in bad
methods. Mrs. Roberts experimented with

s^

REVIVAL OF THE LACE INDUSTRY 59

threads and patterns ; there was no lace which
she did not understand and could not correct.
Wisely comprehending that success could not
attend mere lifeless revivals of old work, she
collected patterns and laces from all over
Europe, and welcomed every kind of work that
was good. In 1897 she was obliged to give up
the work of selling and buying, and it was
placed in the hands of a lady agent in North-
ampton, who has carried it on with untiring
devotion.

Another member of the first working com-
mittee was Mrs. Chettle, who is referred to in
Mrs. Roberts's letter. This lady found distress
among the population about Towcester in 1865,
on account of slackness in the shoe trade, and
she then helped the people by disposing of
;^200 worth of lace amongst her friends. After-
wards she allowed her interest in lace-making
to drop until the year 1888, when she began to
devote herself to the task of buying and selling,
and now has a large connection. Mrs. Bostock,
who bought and sold in the town of Northamp-
ton, also belonged to the first committee.

At Prince's Risborough Mrs. Forrest carried
on the same work, and many others laboured,
following the example of the originators of the
movement. Mrs. Harrison of Paulers Pury
was one of the first to carry on lace -buying

6o LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

on a large scale, though she did not join the
Association till 1891.

All these ladies took the place of the old
professional lace -buyers, who had almost all
given up the trade in the time of its decline.
They began, generally in a small way, to buy
the lace of old workers out of charity and also
from the pure love of it. The rapidity with
which these small beginnings became, in the
hands of ladies unaccustomed to business and
with no wish to make money, large affairs
in which the annual expenditure amounted to
hundreds of pounds, shows the real vitality of
the trade ; it shows that at any rate it was not
dead because it was not wanted. All who
entered into it were carried along, as it were, in-
voluntarily devoting their lives and their money
without any previous planning, plunging sud-
denly into important business transactions just
because they happened to be on the spot to do
the work and there was no one else to do it.
There have been no great losses, neither has
there been much profit, for the lace has gene-
rally been sold at very little over cost price.
It has not been possible, however, to work the
Association as distinct from the individual work
of the ladies (though it has been only financially
distinct) without expenses ; it has therefore been
to a small extent in debt.

VIII

THE CONDITION AND PROSPECTS OF LACE-
MAKING AT THE PRESENT TIME

Has the industry a future? is it business or is
it charity? No question is more often put to
the modern lady lace-buyer. There is a great
demand, so great that, it must be frankly con-
fessed, it very often cannot be met. Sometimes
orders have to be refused, often orders which
could be had for the asking are not asked for.
Lace-buyers, both the amateur (who has by far
the greater part of the business) and the genuine
trader working for his own profit, constantly
reiterate the cry, " I could sell if I could get the
work." It is workers we want, workers by the
hundred, workers who will make the kind of lace
we need. There are some lace-makers who will
offer to make you any kind of lace except the
one which you happen to want at the moment.
Generally you are forced to buy anything they
will consent to make on account of the necessity
of keeping up your stock, though it may be
almost impossible to get a profit on that par-
ticular work.

6l

62 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

This state of things very naturally suggests
the question, Is the work needed, or are we so
rich that we can do without such an industry?
There is undoubtedly a considerable class of
persons to whom it is an immense boon, to
whom its disappearance would be an irreparable
loss. There are hundreds of women between
sixty and ninety years of age quite unfit for any
other kind of work who keep themselves by it
in independence ; any lace-buyer can count up
a large number who keep their husbands as
well — husbands past work, crippled, or blind, or
bedridden. The old mother living in the son's
or daughter's house, past being any assistance in
the housework, feels the delight of not being a
burden on the hard-pressed children. She can
still sit at her pillow part of the day and earn
the four or five shillings a week which keeps her.
Perhaps to the aged the occupation is almost as
great a boon as the earnings, and this accounts
for the intense pleasure with which the work is
almost always spoken of. When sons and
daughters are all grown up and gone away, the
long days may be unspeakably dull to the old
couple, but the wife can always make herself
happy turning over the bobbins. We went to
see a widow, over eighty years old, living all
alone, and tried to buy some of her beautiful
lace. " When my husband was alive," she said,

AT THE PRESENT TIME 63

" he didn't care for me working at it, so I put it
on one side; but now he's dead, I couldn't do
without it, I should be so dull." She could not
sell us any of her work, she had orders that
would keep her busy for months to come.

But it is not only the aged who are glad
of the work ; the mother of the family finds
it a great help. When the housework is done,
and the children are all away at school, she
can sit down and work for a couple of hours,
and the week's earnings will be a comfortable
addition to her man's wages, especially when
there is a large family and he a labourer on
I2S. or 14^. a week. There is no other industry
so convenient for the home. It is clean work
and needs cleanliness, for lace must be spot-
lessly white if the worker is to get her full
price. It creates no litter and no untidiness.
The pillow stands by the window, with a cloth
thrown over it and the chair ready before it.
When baby is put to sleep, the mother has
but to lift the cloth and begin her work : there
is no getting out of material and implements,
and no putting away and clearing up when
the children come home to tea. Where shoe-
work or stay-work is taken at home, the littered
floor and whirring machine make an unpleasant
contrast to the tidiness and quietness of the
bobbins with their little subdued rattle so

64 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

pleasant to the ear. Lace-making is not tiring,
nor in any way trying ; given suitable spectacles
for the old women, it is not at all trying to the
eyes — indeed, an expert worker on a lace she
knows well, looks at it no more than a needle-
woman looks at a long seam. " I could do it
with my eyes shut " is a phrase one often hears
of lace-making, but we take that statement for
what it is worth. It is not monotonous work,
for even in the simplest lace the pattern creates
a variety of motion and sufficient occupation
for the mind. "My mother always said that
to sit down to her pillow was the best rest
she could have after her work," we have been
told by the daughter of a famous lace-maker.

On the advantages and pleasures of the work
much more might justly be said ; but there is
one drawback, a drawback that in these days
seems to have remarkable force : it takes, in
comparison with other home industries, a long
time to learn. No one loves shoe-work and
stay-work, but they can be learnt with astonish-
ingly little expenditure of time and trouble,
and herein lies their superiority. An average
woman working in her odd hours cannot earn
more than 2J. or 3^. a week until she has been
learning lace-making for a year ; she may earn
as much as that after six months; she will
probably earn enough to pay for her pillow

AT THE PRESENT TIME 6;

and bobbins and material after six weeks. A
really first-class lace-maker needs four or five
years of training. She is, of course, earning
something all the time, and she is not having
lessons continuously, but only when she changes
from one pattern to another. During the first
few weeks, before the fingers become supple
and accustomed to the action, the work may
seem slow and tedious, and some perseverance
is necessary. Unfortunately perseverance is a
rare virtue among our villagers ; their faint-
heartedness in every matter which does not
immediately go well is very remarkable, and
would be almost beyond belief.

In the old days children began very young ;
and a child of five or six, who has an oppor-
tunity of learning, will often think lace-making
a most delightful occupation — superior to all
Kindergarten games. But nowadays it cannot
be taught until schooldays are over, when the
girls get out of the regular school routine, and
are unsettled and disinclined to steady work.
Then, after a little loafing about at home, they
are off to service, and we wonder where the next
generation of lace-makers is to come from. If
the babies could be taught to handle the bobbins
in schooltime, instead of plaiting paper mats (no
easier to do) and other Kindergarten occupa-
tions, and if the girls in the upper school could

F

66 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

have an hour or two a week for lace-making
instead of working thousands of sums which
do not lead to any comprehension of mathe-
matics, and are never likely to be of the
smallest use to them, they would, when they
leave school, be fairly efficient lace-makers.
This need not in anywise prevent their going
to service, but in the interval of looking out
for a good place they would be useful members
of society ; they would have a valuable resource
in a case of breakdown of health, and after their
marriage they would have a pleasant and re-
fining occupation for spare hours. If money is
not greatly needed, lace can be made for baby's
clothes. The first piece of lace made to trim
the little daughter's pinafore has been a great
source of pride and pleasure to a married lace
pupil. Unless we can train young lace-makers
now, the trade must pass away with the present
generation. All our present workers (the ex-
ceptions are too few to be taken into account)
were trained in lace schools ; they paid a little
for learning, and got their earnings meanwhile.
The system was admirably adapted to the nature
of the industry it provided ; it provided an eco-
nomical system of excellent technical training
without the help of rates or Government grant.
To commence such a period of teaching now
after the girls leave school is out of the question.

AT THE PRESENT TIME 67

Even putting on one side tlie need of domestic
servants, they could not, after thirteen years of
age, be kept training for three or four years for a
profession, when they should be keeping them-
selves. The economy of the old system lay
in the fact that a girl, beginning quite young,
could do very well by the time she was thirteen
or fourteen. Something is, however, being done.
In some villages a class is held once or twice
a week after school hours, to which girls over
eleven years old come. The classes generally
include some who have already left school, but
who are waiting to be old enough to go into good
service. Unfortunately it is an expensive matter
to keep such classes going for any length of
time, as the girls seldom care to pay for their
instruction. They expect to learn everything
for nothing, because the elementary schools are
free ; also they do not feel sufficiently sure of
being able to continue their work to care to
spend money upon it. A lace school of this
kind has been started by Mrs. Guthrie at East
Haddon, Northamptonshire. She provides a
teacher for girls twice a week in a sort of
parish room in the village. Here also, on one
day in the week, the writer holds a class for
adults. In connection with the school is an
industry for the production of fine lace-trimmed
household linen. It is hoped to be able to

68 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

rival the wonderfully dainty linen goods of
Austria and Germany ; and, indeed, there seems
to be no difficulty in doing so, for the only
complaint made of our towels by a Bond
Street shop was that they were too beautiful ;
ladies would not buy them for the purpose
for which they were intended. Yet there was
no unsuitability of material ; it was merely a
matter of dainty needlework and perfectly har-
monious design. Ladies do our drawn-thread
work, and we make a point of suiting the stitch
and linen to the lace. In this matter of har-
mony and oneness of design the beautiful
foreign linen is often a failure. There is no
doubt about our being able to do it, but we
need more workers. East Haddon is not the
only village where these classes are held. On
bicycle or horseback Miss Channer goes from
one to another, holding more than one class
a day in villages three or four miles apart.

County Councils give but a meagre help in
this great question of the technical training of
the lace-maker. The Northampton County
Council gives this year £\^ for lace-making.
One village may claim £i, which will keep a
class going for about six weeks. At the end
of that time, if no generous patron is ready to
pay for its continuance, the girls probably give
up trying, and all the time and money is wasted.

AT THE PRESENT TIME 69

At Paulers Pury Mrs. Harrison persuades
many mothers to teach their daughters. But
Paulers Pury is an exceptional place; it has
excellent traditions ; its point-ground laces are
unrivalled ; there is an abundance of good
patterns — in fact, patterns which do not take
prizes at lace competitions are usually elimi-
nated. Here, as many as one in three of the
female population are lace-makers. In other
parts of the counties a much smaller propor-
tion of the mothers are lace-makers, and a still
smaller proportion are £^ood lace-makers. Many
mothers cannot, and many will not take the
trouble, to teach their daughters.

In Mrs. Guthrie's school linen laces, both of
the German and Italian style, are taught as well
as the fine point-ground edgings. At one of
Miss Channer's classes held at Spratton real
Valenciennes is being taught. The people are
quick and ready to learn a new lace if only
the teaching problem can be dealt with ; this
problem is successfully solved abroad and is un-
doubtedly the foundation of foreign lace-making.
It is true that we cannot compete with foreigners
in the production of cheap torchon laces. Our
people will not work for so little money as the
Swiss and Germans and Belgians.

After dealing with country lace-makers one
wonders how, even in towns, " sweating " can

70 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

be possible in England ! One longs for some
of the poor hard-worked Londoners to help
build up our trade. When our villagers refuse
to make lace as cheaply as it is imported from
abroad, it must be remembered that the foreign
work is generally inferior. It is surely a matter
for some honest pride that most of our women
would be ashamed to ask us to buy lace such
as one sees in some London shop windows ;
they take a pride in their work, and will not
often lower its quality for more gain. " Look
into it and you'll see it's good work," says a
woman standing out for what she considers
a fair price. " I would not show it you at all
if you could not say it is well made." Yet that
woman was dependent on lace to keep her and
her blind husband from abject poverty; her pride
would not have allowed her to take a penny off
the price, nor to offer anything but the best
work. The public does not always distinguish
between good and bad quality ; it asks for
something cheap. It sees in a shop window
" Real Torchon, 2d." and it says, " How wonder-
fully cheap ! I'll have a dozen yards." The
Northamptonshire woman would have remarked,
" I would not be a foreigner to make such stuff,"
and she would have been taunted with the
reproach, "You can't do it so cheap." No, we
cannot, and we do not succeed when we try to

AT THE PRESENT TIME 71

be cheap. There is a certain knack in turning
out poor work of a perfectly uniform quality.
The writer has deliberately tried to imitate poor
Brussels lace, but she can only make it hope-
lessly and unevenly bad, or uniformly good and
expensive. English people must triumph by the
superiority of their work if they are to triumph
at all, and if it is good they must be well paid
for it. It is in the best and most expensive laces
that we must try to make our way, leaving two-
penny torchon to the foreigner. It is unfortunate
that our British public has an hereditary prefer-
ence for expensive foreign lace over British.
Many a lady will take pleasure in spending
;^io on lace in Venice when she will hesitate to
spend los. on equally good lace in Northampton!
It is uninteresting and unromantic to buy lace
in Northampton, even if it is exactly like the
Venetian and no more expensive.

Having dealt at some length with the condi-
tion of the industry as regards the worker, we
must, before passing on to other aspects, show
what are the earnings of a lace-maker. There
are a few women who get £1 per week or
more ; many more could earn as much if they
could be properly taught. The average among
those who devote a considerable amount of
time to it is perhaps los. per week. Some will
only earn ^s., and some very old women not

72 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

more than 2s. or 3j. There are hardly any
women who really give up all their time to
it ; very few who sit at it regularly many hours
a day. To earn one's shilling a day a/ter the
housework and cooking is done is considered
a very creditable performance. These earnings
ought not to be compared with those of girls
working regularly in factories ; for there cannot
be the steady uninterrupted work at home, where
four or five hours is a good measure, in addition
to other duties and interruptions. How does
the industry stand from the trader's point of
view ? This is a much-debated question.

At the time when the trade was at its lowest
ebb, ten or twelve years ago, almost all the pro-
fessional lace-buyers had abandoned it. Mr.
Smith, at Olney, tells us that he continued
merely from love of the work without hope
of profit. The profits are still extremely small,
but he, like everyone else, complains of having
too small a staff of workers. Mr. W. Robinson,
of Bedford, turned his attention to millinery
laces of horsehair and fibre ; they are worked
on old yak and torchon parchments, but some
of them resemble straw plaiting more than lace.
The field then was absolutely free for the
amateur ; there was practically no competition
with the lace-buyers. The situation was a
unique one ; ladies who were amateurs in the

AT THE PRESENT TIME 73

art of buying and selling found themselves
masters of a rising industry, which in its former
flourishing days had always been carried on
from the strictly commercial point of view ;
nor can there have been many other trades in
England so entirely in the hands of women.

It would have been surprising indeed if no
mistakes had been made ; it is surprising that so
few were made. Time has proved that it was a
mistake to begin the Lace Association with so
small a capital ; taking the individual lace busi-
nesses of the various ladies, those who have put
the most money into it have the most flourish-
ing industry and have suffered the least loss.

At present an attempt is being made to start
the Midland Lace Association on a new basis
with a solid capital, on which interest can be
paid if the present conditions continue. An
offshoot of this association, the North Bucks
Lace Association, which remains affiliated to
the parent society, has begun in a business-like
way, having the advantage that always comes
of beginning later and profiting by the mistakes
of one's predecessors. It is excellently organ-
ised and does good work.

Another mistake was that of keeping prices
too low. The women for a few years had had
great difficulty in selling their lace and ex-
pected to get very little for it; they therefore

74 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

accepted absurdly little remuneration for their
work. The new buyers, not wishing to make
any profit, sold it again for very little. This
was a drawback in many ways. First of all it
kept young people from wishing to learn lace-
making ; so little could be earned, that only old
lace-makers who could do very little else, cared
to take it up, and buyers were dependent upon
a generation which was passing away. In the
second place, no one who desired to make a
profit could begin trading in lace, as they would
inevitably be undersold by the ladies. The con-
sequence, if this had continued, would have been
that a very large body of workers would have
been dependent upon the existence of a suffi-
ciently large body of ladies willing to work very
hard at this trade for nothing, a state of things
which could not be guaranteed to last.

Another way in which low prices have been a
hindrance, has been the difficulty of supplying
shops, who would have been good customers.
The shop could not put on its fair profit and sell
the lace, when it could be had for so very much
less by writing to a Northamptonshire lady, or
at one of the lace sales and exhibitions. The
Association, which could not sell as economically
as ladies could sell among their own friends, was
to a certain extent undersold. It could not make
even a large enough profit to pay the expenses of

AT THE PRESENT TIME 75

keeping up an Association shop, which would
undoubtedly have been an advantage to the in-
dustry. Fortunately this condition of things is
now righting itself. Prices are gradually rising,
though some good laces are still being sold
for too little, which may soon have the effect
of making them disappear from the market.
Ladies in connection with the Association have
agreed to add a definite percentage to the
cost price of their lace. The need of a larger
staff of workers has to some extent forced up
the scale of remuneration to the lace -maker,
though if this had happened sooner we should
to-day be in a better position and able to put
a larger stock into the market. With better
prices, lace shops are buying, to a much larger
extent than formerly, from Midland villages ;
but the bulk of the trade is still in the hands
of the Association and those connected with
it. With good management this may easily
remain so, for we are more popular with the
lace -makers than is the commercial traveller,
and we get all the best work. When they are
well served, the shops are very willing to trade,
with us, and we can often send them a better
selection than their own travellers can obtain.
Personal experience would suggest that shop
managers are the most satisfactory persons to
deal with, for they are invariably courteous and

76 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

business-like, and withal pay promptly, which
cannot always be said of our lady customers.
We should not be always in such need of capital
if we could avoid bad debts ; the necessity of
paying workers immediately makes it very try-
ing to be obliged to wait months and months
for the price of lace sold, and means much draw-
ing upon the lace banking account.

A good idea of the stock which we can show
could have been gathered at the lace exhibition
and sale held by kind permission of the Earl and
Countess Spencer at Spencer House on July I2th
of last year. The value of the lace in the room
was calculated at about ;^8oo. Probably not
much of what was unsold that day remained
many weeks on hand. It represents pretty ac-
curately what the Association can produce at
short notice, but it does not give a correct idea
of the whole output of the three counties. It
did not include the work of the North Bucks
Association, which held a separate and very
successful sale, nor does it show the great quan-
tity of lace made to order on which workers are
continually engaged. These periodical sales are
at present necessary to bring the customers into
touch with the work, but it would be to the con-
venience of the customer and to the advantage
of the trade if this stock could be shown at a
permanent shop or depot.

AT THE PRESENT TIME 77

The existence of an industry is not entirely
a question of supply and demand ; opportunity
and organisation are important factors. In our
three lace counties we have a body of expert
lace - makers capable of holding their own
against any foreign manufacturers, if they are
given a chance, if the trade can be organised
on lines favourable to its development. We
have tried to show that its life or death is
very largely a question of technical education,
yet all that has been done for the training of
the lace -maker is owing to private generosity.
The County Councils help with the merest
pittance, and neutralise the little good they
do by imposing oppressive regulations.

A teacher now working under the Northamp-
ton County Council is told that she cannot be
paid for her work until four other villages have
finished their courses of lessons. She does not
know whether these villages have even begun.
Besides being asked to wait for her remunera-
tion for an indefinite period, she has to advance
money herself for pillows, bobbins, and threads,
for the same reason that no money can be paid
to her until the other four villages of which she
knows nothing have finished their work. Not
many teachers would consent to such conditions.
Such a system may answer for technical classes,
like those held for teaching wood-carving, which

78 LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

are merely for improving amusement, but for a
serious trade it is an absurdity. The supineness
of the authorities of the counties concerned is
extraordinary. Lace-making cannot be learnt
at the Technical School in Northampton, nor
is design taught with any view to its being
utilised for lace-making. In spite of the number
of curious relics of the past in the shape of
lace-pillows, pins, winders, candle-blocks, flasks,
bobbins, dicky-pots, maids, etc., which abound
in the county, the Northampton museum only
shows one dirty, neglected pillow and horse.
There is no collection of old parchments, no
collection of lace (though a collection of North-
ampton lace would be of supreme interest), and
no collection of lace designs and draughts for
the county.

Literature on the subject of lace-making is
unattainable at the Northampton Public Library;
we have tried in vain to hear in Northampton
of one single book on the subject of lace. We
have depended upon the kindness of friends
having valuable books in their possession, and
of Mr. Alan Cole, of the South Kensington
Museum, in allowing us to make use of his
splendid lecture on the art of lace-making.
South Kensington is generous in allowing us
to make use of photographs, and in the
museum every facility is given for the study

AT THE PRESENT TIME 79

of the splendid collection of lace, but in the
counties themselves no help can be obtained
by the novice in lace. We have been starved
and snubbed and neglected, and then we are
told the industry is not wanted because it has
not been a great success ! If only one little
room could be found in Northampton for a
good lace museum ; if only a few standard
books could be provided ; if design, and the
pricking and preparing of lace parchments
could be taught in the technical school, what
an improvement there would be !

The writers of this little book have turned
their attention to the preparation of parchments.
Miss M. Roberts, after studying the " principles
of design " under Mr. Knight at the Technical
School, Northampton, has tried by herself to
apply her knowledge and skill to lace design,
and with considerable success. She is now
prepared to produce suitable patterns for all
kinds of lace for any kind of purpose. Miss
Channer has experimented in the pricking of
parchments with a view to discovering the best
method to teach others, in order that pricking
may not continue to be, as it now is in Eng-
land, a lost art. The so-called " prickers " who
remain depend entirely upon old parchments
for the pricking of a point ground; they are
incapable of ruling out any pattern for them-

8o LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS

selves. The old methods can be studied in
the remarkable draughts in the possession of
Mr. Smith, lace-buyer, of Olney.

Surely the existence in our midst of such
a beautiful art and handicraft as that of lace-
making is worth an effort, worth some public
attention, some public expenditure. It is natural
to our people ; it is absolutely at home in our
three counties ; it is beloved by thousands of
our villagers, mixed with all the romance
of their lives, a blessing to the old and the
delight of the young. One notes the little
girls' delight to use an old bobbin with "grand-
father's name on it " as one teaches in a class
of to-day, and one's mind wanders back in
imagination to the days when grandmother was
young and had husband's and children's names
on her pillow, when the little ones were sent
off day by day to the lace school, when the
young man gave his sweetheart pretty beaded
bone bobbins to make her pillow smart, and the
old man stayed at home to make lace, and
it seems as if all the romance and interest
of life centred round that curious old bundle
of straw, " my pillow." We must take it to
heart that the words are not a mere relic of the
past, but a living factor in thousands of homes
to-day.

PLYMOUTH : W. BRENDON AND SON, PRINTERS.

A CATALOGUE OF BOOKS

AND ANNOUNCEMENTS OF

METHUEN AND COMPANY

PUBLISHERS : LONDON

36 ESSEX STREET

W.C.

CONTENTS

FOKTHCOHING BOOKS,

POETRY, ....

BELLES LETTESS, ANTHOLOGIES, ETC.,
ILLUSTRATED AND GIFT BOOKS,
HISTORY, .....
BIOGRAPHY, . . , .

TRAVEL, ADVENTURE AND TOPOGRAPHY,
NAVAL AND MILITARY,
GENERAL LITERATURE,
PHILOSOPHY, ....
THEOLOGY, ....

FICTION, ....

BOOKS FOR BOYS AND GIRLS, .
THE PEACOCK LIBRARY,
UNIVERSITY EXTENSION SERIES,
SOCIAL QUESTIONS OP TO-DAY
CLASSICAL TRANSLATIONS,
EDUCATIONAL BOOKS,

15
17

24
24

29

39
39
39
40

41
42

AUGUST 1900

August 1900

Messrs. Methuen's

ANNOUNCEMENTS

Travel, Adventure and Topography

THE INDIAN BORDERLAND: Being a Personal Record
of Twenty Years. By Sir T. H. Holdich, K.C.I.E. Illustrated.
Demy Svo. i$s. net.
This book is a personal record of the author's connection with those military and
political expeditions which, during the last twenty years, have led to the con-
solidation of our present position in the North-West frontier of India. It is
chiefly a personal history of trans-frontier surveys and boundary demarcations,
commencing with Penjdeh and ending with the Pamirs, Chitral, and Tirah ; but
it also contains an account of some of the minor frontier expeditions which have
taken us, as pioneers, into hitherto unmapped districts, and have given us an
accurate topographical and ethnographical knowledge of the trans-Indus frontier
from Karachi to Kafirstan.

MODERN ABYSSYNIA. By A. B. Wylde. With a Map and
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who knows the country intimately, and has had the privilege of the friendship of
King Menelik.

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and cheaper Edition in 16 Fortnightly Parts at is. each net; or in
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An extract from a review of this great book, which T/ie Times has called ' one of the
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Revised by Commanding Officers.
THE HISTORY OF THE BOER WAR. By F. H. E. CUN-
LIFFE, Fellow of All Souls' College, Oxford. With many Illustrations,
Plans, and Portraits. Vol. I. Qtiarto. 145. Also in Fortnightly
Parts, is. each.

The first volume of this important work is nearly ready. When complete, this book
will give an elaborate and connected account of the military operations in South
Africa from the declaration to the end of the present war.

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The History is finely illustrated.

A PRISONER OF WAR. By Colonel A. Schiel. Crown
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Messrs. Methuen's Announcements 3

THE SIEGE OF MAFEKING. By ANGUS Hamilton. With

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Poetry

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History and Biography

THE LETTERS OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON TO
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THE LIFE AND LETTERS OF SIR JOHN EVERETT
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THE WALKERS OF SOUTHGATE : Being the Chronicles of
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A HISTORY OF EGYPT, from the Earliest Times to
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THE ESSAYS OF ELIA. By Charles Lamb. With 70
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4 Messrs. Methuen's Announcements
the early poems of alfred lord tennyson.

Edited, with Notes and an Introduction by J. Churton Collins,
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NURSERY RHYMES. With many Coloured Pictures by
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THE PHILOSOPHY OF RELIGION IN ENGLAND. By
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\^Handbooks of Theology.
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ST. PAUL'S SECOND AND THIRD EPISTLES TO THE

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tibc XlbratB ot Derotton

Pott Zvo. Cloth 2s, ; leather 2s. 6d. net,
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A GUIDE TO ETERNITY. By Cardinal Bona. Edited

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by B. W. Randolph, D.D., Principal of the Theological College,

Ely.
A devotional and practical edition of the Prayer Book version of the Psalms.

LYRA APOSTOLICA. With an Introduction by Canon Scott
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Messrs. Methuen's Announcements s
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ttbe JLittle ©ui&ee

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WESTMINSTER ABBEY. By G. E. Troutbeck. Illustrated
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THE LIFE OF SAVONAROLA. By E. L. HORSBURGH, M.A.,
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THE LIFE OF DANTE ALIGHIERI. By Paget Toynbee.
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Vaz "HiQlortis of Sbafteepeacc

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THE LETTERS OF LORD CHESTERFIELD TO HIS
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6 Messrs. Methuen's Announcements
Zbc movele ot Cbatles Mcfiens

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The first volumes are :

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THE EARLY POEMS OF ALFRED, LORD TENNYSON.

Edited by J. C. Collins, M.A.
MAUD. By Alfred, Lord Tennyson. Edited by Elizabeth

Wordsworth.
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E. V. Lucas. Two Volumes.
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Three volumes.
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Notes.

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THE INFERNO OF DANTE. Translated by H. F. Gary.

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by Annie Mathbson. Two volumes.
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Edited by T. F. Henderson.

Messrs. Methuen's Announcements 7
General Literature

DARTMOOR: A Descriptive and Historical Sketch. By S.
Baring Gould. With Plans and Numerous Illustrations. Crown
8w. 6s.

This book attempts to give to the visitor a descriptive history of the antiquities and
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THE RUBAIYAT OF OMAR KHAYYAM. Translated by
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This edition of the famous book, the text of which i.s printed by permission of Messrs.
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Scientific and Educational

THE CAPTIVI OF PLAUTUS. Edited, with an Introduction,
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THE CONSTRUCTION OF LARGE INDUCTION COILS.
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LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS, PAST AND
PRESENT. By C. C. Channer and M. E. Roberts. With i6
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AGRICULTURAL ZOOLOGY. By Dr. J. Ritzema Bos.
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Messrs. Methuen's Announcements

Fiction

THE MASTER CHRISTIAN. By Marie Corelli. Crown
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QUISANTE. By Anthony Hope. Crown Zvo. 6s.

A MASTER OF CRAFT. By W. W. Jacobs, Author of
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Messrs. Methuen*s Announcements $

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XLbc mopellst

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XIIL THE POMP OF THE LAVILETTES. Gilbert Parker.

XIV. A MAN OF MARK. Anthony Hope.

[Ai/^ust,
XV. THE CARISSIMA. Lucas Malet.

iSe/iUmier.
XVI. THE LADY'S WALK. Mrs. Oliphant.

[Oaolidr.
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[/^ovei/ider.

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A New Series of Copyright Books.
I. THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN. Maj. -General Baden Powell.
II. THE DOWNFALL OF PREMPEPL Do.

III. MY DANISH SWEETHEART. W. Clark Russell.

{July.

IV. IN THE ROAR OF THE SEA. S. Baring Gould.

\August.
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\_August.
VI. IN THE MIDST OF ALARMS. Robert Barr.

\_Septeinbcr.

A 2

A CATALOGUE OF

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PUBLICATIONS

Poetry

Rudyard Kipling. BARRACK-ROOM
BALLADS. By Rudyard Kipling.
68/A Thousand. Crown 8vo, 6s.
Leather^ 6s. net.

' Mr. Kipling's verse is strong, vivid, full
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palpitate with emotion. We read them
with laughter and tears ; the metres throb
in our pulses, the cunningly ordered
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Rudyard Kipling. THE SEVEN
SEAS. By Rudyard Kipling.
57^/j Thousand. Cr. Zvo. Buckram,
gilt top. 6s. Leather^ 6j. net,

' The Empire has found a singer ; it is no
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statesmen may have, one way or other,
to take account of them,' — Manchester
Guardian.

'Animated through and through with in-
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'Q." POEMS AND BALLADS.
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By

"Q." GREEN BAYS: Verses and
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Crown 8vo. 35. 6d,

E. Maokay. A SONG OF THE SEA.
By Eric Mackay. Second Edition.
Fcap. 8vo. 5J.

H. Ibsen. BRAND. A Drama by

Henrik Ibsen. Translated by

William Wilson. TAird Edition.
Crown 8vo. 3J. 6d.

A. D. Godley. LYRA FRIVOLA. Bv

A. D. Godley, M.A,, Fellow o'f

Magdalen College, Oxford. Third

Edition. Pott 8vo. 2S. 6d.

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12

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Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue 13

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IN MEMORIAM. By Alfred, Lord
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14 Messrs. Methuen*s Catalogue

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OXFORD AND ITS COLLEGES.
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History

Hinders Petrie. A HISTORY OF
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Vol. II. The XVIIth and

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Milne.
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C. W. Oman. A HISTORY OF THE
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Fozirth Edition. Royal Svo. 151.

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i6

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Edited by J. B. BURY, M.A.

ZACHARIAH OF MITYLENE.
Translated into Englishi by F. ].
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EVAGRIUS. Edited by Professor

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A

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J. M. Rigg. ST. ANSELM OF
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3

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A completely new edition of the well known
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Travel, Adventure and Topography

SvenHedin. THROUGH ASIA. By
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and Maps, ivols. Royal %vo. 20s.net,

'One of the greatest books of the kind
issued during the century. It is im-
possible to give an adequate idea of the
richness of the contents of this book,
nor of its abounding attractions as a story
of travel unsurpassed in geographical
and human interest. Much of it is a
revelation. Altogether the work is one
which in solidity, novelty, and interest
must take a first rank among publica-
tions of its class. ' — Times.

F. H. Skrine and E. D. Ross. THE
HEART OF ASIA. By F. H.
Skrine and E. D. Ross. With
Maps and many Illustrations by
Verestchagin. Large Crown Qvo,
los. 6d. net.
' This volume will form a landmark in our

knowledgeof Central Asia. . . . Illumin-
ating and convincing.' — Tbucs.

K. E. Peary, NORTHWARD OVER
THE GREAT ICE. ByR. E.Peary,
Gold Medallist of the Royal Geogra-
phical Society. With over 800 Illus-
trations. 2 vols. Royal Zvo. 32J-. net,
' His book will take its place among the per-
manent literature of Arctic exploration.'
— Times.

E. A. FitzGerald. THE HIGHEST
ANDES. By E. A, FitzGerald.
With 2 Maps, 51 Illustrations, 13 of
which are in Photogravure, and a
Panorama. Royal Bvo, 3oj-. ?iet.
Also a Small Edition on Hand-made
Paper, limited to 50 Copies, ^to,

'The record of the first ascent of the highest
mountain yet conquered by mortal man.
A volume which will continue to be the
classic book of travel on this region of
the AndtiS.'— Daily Chronicle.

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

19

F. W. Christian. THE CAROLINE

ISLANDS. By F. W. Christian.
With many Illustrations and Maps.
Demy Svo. Z2S. 6d. net.

' A real contribution to our knowledge of
the peoples and islands of Micronesia,
as well as fascinating as a narrative of
travels and adventure.' — Scoisntan.

H. H. JoHnston. BRITISH CEN-
TRAL AFRICA. By Sir H. H.
Johnston, K.C.B. With nearly
Two Hundred Illustrations, and Six
Maps. Second Edition. Crown d^io.
i8j, net.

' A fascinating book, written with equal
skill and charm — the work at once of a
literary artist and of a man of action
who is singularly wise, brave, and ex-
perienced. It abounds in admirable
sketches. ' — WestTnznsier Gazette.

L. Deole. THREE YEARS IN
SAVAGE AFRICA. By Lionel
Decle. With 100 Illustrations and
5 Maps. Second Edition. Demy Svo.
los. 6d. net.

' Its bright pages give a better general
survey of Africa from the Cape to the
Equator than any single volume that
has yet been published.' — Times.

A. Hulme Beaman. TWENTY
YEARS IN THE NEAR EAST.
By A. Hulme Beaman. Demy
Svo. With Portrait, -los. 6d.

Henri of Orleans. FROM TONKIN
TO INDIA. By Prince Henri of
Orleans. Translated by Hamley
Bent, M.A. With 100 Illustrations
and a Map. Cr. ^to, gilt top. 255.

S. L. Hinde. THE FALL OF THE
CONGO ARABS. By S. L. Hinde.
With Plans, etc. Demy Svo. I2i. dd.

A. St. H. Gibbons. EXPLORATION
AND HUNTING IN CENTRAL
AFRICA. By Major A. St. H.
Gibbons. With full-page Illustra-
tions by C. Whymper, and Maps.
Demy Svo. 151.

Fraser. ROUND THE WORLD
ON A WHEEL. By JOHN Foster
Eraser. With 100 Illustrations.
Crown Svo. 6s.

' A classic of cycling, graphic and witty.' —
Yorkshire Post.

E. L. Jefferson. A NEW RIDE TO
KHIVA. By R. L. Jefferson.
Illustrated. Crown Svo, 6s.

The account of an adventurous ride on a
bicycle through Russia and the deserts
of Asia to Khiva.

* An exceptionally fascinating book of
travel. '—Pall Mall Gazette.

J. K. Trotter. THE NIGER
SOURCES. By Colonel J. K.
Trotter, R.A. With a Map and
Illustrations. Crown Svo. <,s.

Michael Davitt. LIFE AND PRO-
GRESS IN AUSTRALASIA. By
Michael Davitt, M.P. 500 pp.
With 2 Maps. Crown Svo. 6s.

W. J. Galloway. ADVANCED AUS-
TRALIA. By William J. Gal-
loway, M. P. Crown Svo. y. 6d.

' This is an unusally thorough and informa-
tive little work.' — Morning Post.

W. Crooke. THE NORTH-
WESTERN PROVINCES OF
INDIA : Their Ethnology and
Administration. By W. Crooke.
With Maps and Illustrations. Demy
Svo. 10s. 6d.

A. Eoisragon. THE BENIN MAS-
SACRE. By Captain Boisragon.
Second Edition. Cr. Svo. 3J. 6d.

' If the story had been written four hundred
years ago it would be read to-day as an
English classic' — Scotsman.

H. S. Cowper. THE HILL OF THE
GRACES: OR, THE Great Stone
Temples of Tripoli. By H. S.
Cowper, F.S.A. With Maps, Plans,
and 75 Illustrations. Demy Svo. ios.6d.

20

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

W. B. Worsfold. SOUTH AFRICA.

By W. B. WORSFOLD, M.A. With

a Map, Second Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s.

' A monumental work compressed into a

very moderate compass.' — World.

Katherine and Gilbert Macquoid. IN
PARIS. By Katherine and Gil-
bert Macquoid. Illustrated by
Thomas R. Macquoid, R.I. With
2 maps. Crown Qvo. is.
' A useful little guide, judiciously Supplied
with information.' — Athenaeum.

A. H. Keane. THE BOER STATES :
A History and Description of the
Transvaal and the Orange Free State.
By A. H. Keane, M.A. With
Map. Croian 8vo. 6s^

' ^V work of clear aims and thorough execu-
tion.' — Academy.

' A compact and very trustworthy account
of the Boers and their surroundings.'

— Morning Post.

Naval and Military

G, S. Robertson. CHITRAL: The

Story of a Minor Siege. By Sir

G. S. Robertson, K. C.S.I. With

numerousIUustrations, Map and Plans.

Second Edition. Demy %vo. xos. 6d.

' It is difficult to imagine the kind of person

who could read this brilliant book without

emotion. The story remains immortal —

a testimony imperishable. We are face

to face with a great book.' — Illustrated

London Neivs.

'A book which the Elizabethans would have

thought wonderful. More thrilling, more

piquant, and more human than any

novel.' — Newcastle Chronicle.

'As fascinating as Sir Walter Scott's best

fiction.' — Daily Telegraph.

R. S. S. Baden-Powell. THE DOWN-
FALL OF PREMPEH. a Diary of
Life in Ashanti, 1S95. By Maj.-Gen.
Baden- Powell. With 21 Illustra-
tions and a Map. Cheaper Edition.
Large Crown 8vo. 6s.

R. S. S. Baden-PoweU. THE MATA-
BELE CAMPAIGN, 1896. By Maj.-
Gen. Baden-Powell. With nearly
100 Illustrations. Cheaper Editio?i.
Large Crown 8vo. 6s.

J. B. Atkins. THE RELIEF OF
LADYSMITH. By John Black
Atkins. With 16 Plans and Illus-
trations. Second Edition. Croio?i
8vo. 6s.
This book contains a full narrative by an
eye-witness of General Buller's attempts,

and of his final success. The story is of
absorbing interest, and is the only com-
plete account which has appeared.

'The mantle of Archibald Forbes and G.
W. Steevens h.is assuredly fallen upon
Mr. Atkins, who unites a singularly
graphic style to an equa ly rare faculty
of vision. In his pages -we realise the
meaning of a modern campaign with the
greatest sense of actuality. His pages
are written with a sustained charm of
diction and ease of manner that are no
less remarkable than the sincerity and
vigour of the matter which they set
before us.' — JVorid.

' I\Ir. Atkins has a genius for the painting
of war which entitles him already to be
ranked with Forbes and Steevens, and
encourages us to hope that he may one
day rise to the level of Napier and
King\ak&.'~Pall Mall Gazette.

' It is the record told with insight and
sympathy of a great conflict. It is as
readable as a novel, and it bears the
imprint of trutli.' — Morning Leader.

H. W. Nevinson. LADYSMITH : The
Diary of a Siege. By H. W. Nevin-
son. With 16 Illustrations and a

Plan. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Tlilsbook contains a complete diary of the
Siegeof Ladysmith, and is a most vivid
and picturesque narrative.

'There is no exaggeration here, no strain-
ing after effect. But there is the truest
realism, the impression of things as they
are seen, set forth in well-chosen words
and well-balanced phrases, with a mea-

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

21

sured self-restraint that marks the true
artist. Mr. Nevinson is to be congratu-
lated on the excellent work that he has
done.' — Daily Chronicle.
' Of the many able and fascinating chroni-
clers of the sad and splendid story, Mr.
Nevinson is among the ablest and most
fascinating. '—Fait Mall Gazette.

E, H. Aaderson. WITH THE
MOUNTED INFANTRY AND
THE MASHONALAND FIELD
FORCE, i8g6. By Lieut. -Colonel
Alderson. With numerous Illus-
trations and Plans. Demy ^vo.
los. 6d.

Seymour Vandeleur. CAMPAIGN-
ING ON THE UPPER NILE
AND NIGER. By Lieut. SEYMOUR
Vandeleur. With an Introduction
by Sir G. GoLDIE, K.C.M.G. With
4 Maps, Illustrations, and Plans.
Large Crcnvn Zvo. -ios. 6d.

Lord Fincastle. A FRONTIER
CAMPAIGN. By Viscount FIN-
CASTLE, V.C, and Lieut. P. C.
Elliott-Lockhart. With a Map
and i6 Illustrations. Second Edition.
Crown Zvo. 6s,

E. N. Bennett. THE DOWNFALL
OF THE DERVISHES : A Sketch
of the Sudan Campaign of 1898. By
E. N. Bennett, Fellow of Hertford
College. With a Photogravure Por-
trait of Lord Kitchener. Third
Edition. Crown ^vo. y. 6d.

W. Kiunaird Kose. WITH THE
GREEKS IN THESSALY. By
W. Klnnaird Rose. With Illus-
trations. Crown Qvo. 6s.

G. W. Steevens. NAVAL POLICY :

ByG. W. Steevens. DemySvo. 6s.

This book is a description of the British and

othermore important navies of the world,

with a sketch of the lines on which our

naval policy might possibly be developed.

D. Hannay. A SHORT HISTORY
OF THE ROYAL NAVY, From

Early Times to the Present Day.

By David Hannay. Illustrated.

2 Vols. Demy Svo. js. 6d. each.

Vol. I., 1200-1688.
' We read it from cover to cover at a sitting,
and those who go to it for a lively and
brisk picture of the past, with all its faults
and its grandeur, will not be disappointed.
The historian is endowed with literary
skill and style.' — Standard.

C. Cooper King. THE STORY OF

THE BRITISH ARMY. By Colonel

Cooper King. Illustrated. Demy

Svo. ys. 6d.

' An authoritative and accurate story of

England's military progress.' — Daily

Mail.

R. Southey. ENGLISH SEAMEN
(Howard, Clifford, Hawkins, Drake,
Cavendish). By Robert Southey.
Edited, with an Introduction, by
David Hannay. Second Edition.
Crown ^vo. 6s.
' A brave, inspiriting book.' — Black and
White.

W. Clark EusseU. THE LIFE OF

ADMIRAL LORD COLLING-

WOOD. By W. Clark Russell.

With Illustrations by F. Brangwyk.

Third Edition. Crown Svo. 6s,

' A book which we should like to see in the

hands of every boy in the country.' —

St. James's Gazette.

E. L. S. Horsburgh. WATERLOO : A

Narrative and Criticism. By E. L. S.

Horsburgh, B. A. With Plans.

Second. Edition, Crown 8vo, 5^.

'A brilliant essay — simple, sound, and

thorough.' — Daily Chronicle.

H. B. George. BATTLES OF
ENGLISH HISTORY. By H. B.
George, M.A. , Fellow of New
College, Oxford. With numerous
Plans. Third Edition. Cr, Zvo, 6s,
' Mr. George has undertaken a very useful
task — that of making military affairs in-
telligible and instructive to non-military
readers — and has executed it with a
large measure of success.' — Times,

22

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

General Literature

S, Baring Gould. THE BOOK OF
THE WEST. By S. Baring
Gould. With numerous Illustra-
tions. Two volumes. Vol. i. Devon.
Vol. II. Cornwall. Crown ^vo.
ts. each.
' They are very attractive little volumes,
they have numerous very pretty and
interesting pictures, the story is fresh
and bracing as the air of Dartmoor, and
the legend weird as twilight over Doz-
mare Pool, and they give us a very good
idea of this enchanting and beautiful
district.'— G^7i«?-^/a«.
'A narrative full of picturesque incident,
personal interest, and literary charm.' —
Leeds Mercury.
S. Baring Gould. OLD COUNTRY
LIFE. ByS. BARING GouLD. With
Sixty-seven Illustrations. Large Cr.
Zvo. Fifth Edition, 6s.
' ' Old Country Life, " as healthy wholesome
reading, full of breezy life and move-
ment, full of quaint stories vigorously
told, will not be excelled by any book to
be published throughout the year.
Sound, hearty, and English to the core. '
— World.

S. Baring Gould. AN OLD ENGLISH
HOME. By S. Baring Gould.
With numerous Plans and Illustra-
tions. Crow?i Qvo. 6s.
'The chapters are delightfully fresh, very
informing, and lightened by many a good
story. A delightful fireside companion. '
— Si. Jai7ies's Gazette.

S. Baring Gould. HISTORIC
ODDITIES AND STRANGE
EVENTS. By S. Baring Gould.
Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

S. Baring Gould. FREAKS OF
FANATICISM. By S. Baring
Gould. Third Edition. Cr. Svo. 6s.

S. Baring Gould. A GARLAND OF
COUNTRY SONG: English Folk
Songs with their Traditional Melodies.
Collected and arranged by S. Baring
Gould and H. F. Sheppakd.
Dc;/,y ^lO. 6s.

S. Baring Gould. SONGS OF THE

WEST : Traditional Ballads and
Songs of the West of England, with
their Melodies. Collected by S.
Baring Gould, M.A. , and H. F.
Sheppard, M.A. In 4 Parts. Farts
/., //., ///., 3^. eac/i. Fart IV., 55.
In one Vol., French morocco, i^s.
' A rich collection of humour, pathos, grace,
and poetic fancy.' — Saturday Review.

S. Baring Gould. YORKSHIRE
ODDITIES AND STRANGE
EVENTS. By S. Baring Gould.
Fourth Edition. Crown Svo. 6s.

S. Baring Gould. STRANGE SUR-
VIVALS AND SUPERSTITIONS.
By S. Baring Gould. Cr. Svo.
Second Edition. 6s.

S. Baring Gould. THE DESERTS
OF SOUTHERN FRANCE. By
S. Baring Gould. 2 vols. Demy
Svo. 2)^s.

Cotton Minchin. OLD HARROW
DAYS. By J. G. Cotton Minchin.
Cr. Svo. Second Edition. 55.

W. E. Gladstone. THE SPEECHES
OF THE RT. HON. W. E. GLAD-
STONE, M.P. Edited by A. W.
Hutton, M.A., and H.J.Cohen,
M.A. With Portraits. Demy Svo.
Vols. IX. and X.^ 12s. 6d. each.

J. E. Marr. THE SCIENTIFIC
STUDY OF SCENERY. By J. E.
Mark, F.R.S., Fellow of St. John's
College, Cambridge. Illustrated.

Crown Svo. 6s.

An elementary treatise on geomorphology
— the study of the earth's outward forms.
It is for the use of students of physical
geography and geology, and will also be
highly interesting to the general reader.

'A fascinating book, a real fairy tale.' —
Pall Mall Gazette.

' Mr. Marr is distinctly to be congratulated
on the general result of his work. He
has produced a volume, moderate in Azz

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

23

and readable in style, which will be
acceptable alike to the student of geo-
logy and geography, and to the tourist.'
— AtJienoiutn,
'Can be read with pleasure alike by the
expert and the general reader.'

— Manchester Guardian.

M. N. Oxford. A HANDBOOK OF
NURSING. By M. N. Oxford, of
Guy's Hospital. Croivii 8vo. 35. 6d.

This is a complete guide to the science and
art of nursing, containing copious in-
struction both general and particular.

* The most useful work of the kind that we
have seen. A most valuable and prac-
tical manual.' — Manchester Guardian.

E. V. Zenker. ANARCHISM. By

E. V. Zenker. DeTny 8vo. ys. 6d.

' Herr Zenker has succeeded in producing a

careful and critical history of the growth

of Anarchist theory.

A. SilvaWMte. THE EXPANSION
OF EGYPT: A Political and His-
torical Survey. By A. SiLVA White.
With four Special Maps. Deviy 8vo.
151, nef.
' This is emphatically the best account of
Eg>'pt as it is under English control that
has been published for many years.' —
Spectator.

Peter Beckford. THOUGHTS ON

HUNTING. By Peter Beckford.

Edited by J. Otho Paget, and

Illustrated by G. H. Jalland.

Demy Svo. 10s, 6d.

' Beckford's "Thoughts on Hunting" has

long been a classic with sportsmen, and

the present edition will go far to make it

a favourite with lovers of literature.' —

Speaker.

E. B. MicheU. THE ART AND
PRACTICE OF, HAWKING. By
E. B. Michell! With 3 Photo-
gjravures by G. E. Lodge, and other
Illustrations. Demy Svo. los. 6d.

A complete description of the Hawks,
Falcons, and Eagles used in ancient and
modern times, with directions for their
training and treatment. It is not only
a historical account, but a complete
practical guide.

'A book that will help and delight the
expert.' — Scotsman.

'Just after the hearts of all enthusiasts.' —

Daily Telegraph.
' No book is more full and authorative than

this handsome treatise.'

— Morning' Leader.

H. G. Hutchinson. THE GOLFING
PILGRIM. By Horace G.
Hutchinson. Crown Svo. 6s.
' Without this book the golfer's library will
be incomplete.' — Pall Mall Gazette.

J. WeUs. OXFORD AND OXFORD
LIFE. By Members of the Uni-
versity. Edited by J. Wells, M.A.,
Fellow and Tutor of Wadham College.
Third Edition. Cr. Svo. 35. 6d.
' We congratulate Mr. Wells on the pro-
duction of a readable and intelligent
account of Oxford as it is at the present
time, written by persons who are pos-
sessed of a close acquaintance with the
system and life of the University.* —
Athemsum.

C. G. Robertson. VOCES ACADE-
MICS. By C. Grant Robertson,
M.A., Fellow of All Souls', Oxford.
With a Frontispiece. Pott Svo. :^s.6d,
' Decidedly clever and amusing.'—
Athen^um.

Rosemary Cotes. DANTE'S GAR-
DEN. By Rosemary Cotes. With

a Frontispiece. Second Editio7i. Fcp.
Svo. ^.s. 6d. Leather, ^s. 6d. net.
'A charming collection of legends of the
flowers mentioned by Dante.' — Academy.

Clifford Harrison. READING AND
READERS. By Clifford Harri-
son. Fcp. Svo. 2s. 6d.
'An extremely sensible little book.' — Man-
chester Guardian.

L. Whibley. GREEK OLIGARCH-
lES : THEIR ORGANISATION
AND CHARACTER. By L.
Whibley, M.A. , Fellow of Pem-
broke College, Cambridge. Crown
Svo. 6s.

L. L. Price. ECONOMIC SCIENCE
AND PRACTICE. By L, L. Price,
M.A., Fellow of Oriel College. Ox-
ford. Crown Svo, 6s.

24

Messrs. Methuen*s Catalogue

J. S. Shedlock. THE PIANOFORTE
SONATA : Its Origin and Develop-
ment. ByJ.S. Shedlock. Crown
Zvo. 5 J.
' This work should be in the possession of
every musician and amateur. A concise
and lucid history and a very valuable
work for reference.' — AthetKSuin.

A. Hulm© Beaman. PONS ASIN-
ORUM ; OR. A GUIDE TO
BRIDGE. By A. HuLME Bea-
man. Fcaf Zvo. 2.S.
A practical guide, with many specimen
games, to the new game of Bridge.

E. M. Bowden. THE EXAMPLE OF
BUDDHA : Being Quotations from

Buddhist Literature for each Day in
the Year. Compiled by E. M.
BowDEN. Third Edition. i6mo.
2S. 6d.
F. Ware. EDUCATIONAL RE-
FORM. By Fabian Ware, M.A.
Crow/i Zvo. 2s. 6d.
An attempt by an expert to forecast the
action and influence of the New Second-
ary Education Act, with suggestions
for useful developments.
'Mr. Ware's book may be warmly com-
mended to all who have at heart the
desire for the intellectual prosperity of
the British race.' — Morning- Post.
' Any one who really wants to know how
education stands to-day should read it.'
— Lite7-ature.

Philosophy

L. T. Hobhouse. THE THEORY OF
KNOWLEDGE. By L. T. Hob-
house, Fellow of C.C.C. , Oxford.
Demy 8z'(7. 2ii.
' The most important contribution to
English philosophy since the publication
of Mr. Bradley s "Appearance and
Reality." ' — Glasgow Herald.
W. H. Fairbrother. THE PHILO-
SOPHY OF T. H. GREEN. By
W. H. Fairbrother, M.A. Cr.
8vo. 3^. 6d.

'In every way an admirable book.' —
Glasgow Herald.

F. W. BusseU. THE SCHOOL OF
PLATO. By F. W. BusSELL, D.D. ,
Fellow of Brasenose College, Oxford.
Demy '&vo. los. 6d.

F. S. Granger. THE WORSHIP
OF THE ROMANS. By F. S.
Granger, M.A., Litt.D. Crown

&V0. 6s.

Theol

W. R. Inge. CHRISTIAN MYSTI-
CISM. The Hampton Lectures for
1899. ByW. R. Inge, M.A., Fellow
and Tutor of Hertford College,
Oxford. Demy Zvo. i2j. 6d. net.
A complete surve of the subject from St.
John and St. Paul to modern times,
covering the Christ ian Platonists, Augus-
tine, the Devotional Mystics, the
Mediseval Mystics, and the Nature
Mystics and Symbolists, including
Bohme and Wordsworth.
'It is fully worthy of the best traditions
connected with the Bampton Lecture-
ship.' — Record.

S. R. Driver. SERMONS ON SUB-
JECTS CONNECTED WITH
THE OLD TESTAMENT. By S.
R. Driver, D.D., Canon of Christ
Church, Regius Professor of Hebrew

og7

in the University of Oxford. Cr. Zvo.
6s.

' A welcome companion to the author's
famous " Introduction." ' — Guardian.

T. K. Cheyne. FOUNDERS OF OLD
TESTAMENT CRITICISM. By
T. K. Cheyne, D.D., Oriel Pro-
fessor at Oxford. Large Crown 8vo.
7s. 6d.

A historical sketch of O. T. Criticism.

Walter Lock. ST. PAUL, THE
MASTER-BUILDER. ByWALTER
Lock, D.D., Warden of Keble
College. Crown Zvo. 3^-. 6d.

' The essence of the Pauline teaching is
condensed into little more than a hun-
dred pages, yet no point of importance

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

25

IS overlooked. We gladly recommend
the lectures to all who wish to read with
understanding.' — Guardian.

H. EashdaU. DOCTRINE AND
DEVELOPMENT. By Hastings
Rashdall, M.A. , Fellow and Tutor
of New College, Oxford. Cr.Svo. 6i.
' A very interesting attempt to restate some
of the principal doctrines of Christianity,
in which _Mr. Rashdall appears to us to
have achieved a high measure of success.
He is often learned, almost always sym-
pathetic, and always singularly lucid.' —
Manchester Guardian.

H. ttHenson. APOSTOLIC CHRIS-
TIANITY: As Illustrated by the
Epistles of St. Paul to the Corinthians.
By H. H. Henson, M.A., Fellow of
All Souls', Oxford. Cr. Svo. 6s.

H. H, Henson. DISCIPLINE AND
LAW. By H. Hensley Henson,
B.D,, Fellow of All Souls', Oxford.
Fcap. Svo. 2S. 6d.

H. H. Henson. LIGHT AND
LEAVEN : Historical and
Social Sermons. By H. H. Hen-
son, M.A. Crown Svo. 6s.

Bennett and Adeney. A BIBLICAL
INTRODUCTION. By W. H.
Bennett, M. A. , and W. F. Adeney,
M.A. Crown Svo. ']s. 6d,

' It makes available to the ordinary reader
the best scholarship of the day in the
field of Biblical introduction. We know
of no book which comes into competi-
tion with it.' — lilanchesier Guardian.

W. H. Bennett. A PRIMER OF

THE BIBLE. By W. H. Bennett.

Second Edition. Cr. Svo. 2S, 6d.

' The work of an honest, fearless, and sound

critic, and an excellent guide in a small

compass to the books of the Bible.' —

Manchester Guardian.

C. F. G. Maaterman. TENNYSON

AS A RELIGIOUS TEACHER.

By C. F. G. Masterman. Crown

Svo. 6s.

' A thoughtful and penetrating appreciation,

full of interest and suggestion.' — World.

William Harrison. CLOVELLY

SERMONS. By William Harri-

son, M.A. , late Rector of Clovelly.
With a Preface by ' LucAS Malet.'
Cr. Svo. y. 6d.
CeoiUa Kobinson. THE MINISTRY
OF DEACONESSES. By Deacon-
ness Cecilia Robinson. With an
Introduction by the Lord Bishop of
Winchester. Cr. Svo. y. 6d.
' A learned and interesting book.' — Scats-
fnan.

E. E. Layard. RELIGION IN BOY-
HOOD. Notes on the Religious
Training of Boys. By E. B.
Layard, M.A. iSmo. is.

T. Herbert Bindley. THE OECU-
MENICAL DOCUMENTS OF
THE FAITH. Edited with Intro-
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THE CHRISTIAN YEAR. By John

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30

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

SIMON DALE,
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32

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B. M. Croker. PEGGY OF THE
BARTONS. By B. M. Croker,

Author of 'Diana Barrington.'
Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.
Mrs. Croker excels in the admirably simple,
easy, and direct flow of her narrative, the
briskness of her dialogue, and the geni-
ality of her portraiture.' — Spectator.

Mary L. rendered. AN ENGLISH-
MAN. By Mary L. Pendered.
Crown 8vo. 6s.
' Her book is most healthy in tone, and
leaves a pleasant taste in the mouth.' —
Pall Mall Gazette.
' A very noble book. 1 1 is filled with wisdom

and sympathy.' — Literary World.
*At once sound and diverting.' — Academy.

Money EoTaerts. THE PLUN-
DERERS. By Morley Roberts,
Author of ' The Colossus,' etc.
Crown 8vo. 6s.

* The author secures and maintains the

reader's lively interest in his clever ab-
surdities.'— /'a// ^/a:// Gazette.
' The whole atmosphere is one of high spirits
and high CQXn^Ay.'— Globe.

* Mr. Roberts writes of real people who do

things and know things.' — Black and
White.

Norma Lorimer. MIRRY-ANN. By
Norma Lorimer, Author of *Jo-
siah's Wife.' Crown 8vo. 6s.

' The heroine is rare and striking, but
thorough woman and altogether lovable,
and the plot is brisk and well sustained.'
—Pall Mall Gazette.

' It is a Manx story, and a right able story.
The atmosphere Is excellent, the descrip-
tive passages fine, and the story is one
which win repay perusal.' — Glasgow
Herald,

' A Manx novel which is at once sincere,
poetical, and in the best sense true.'^ —
Acade7ny.

Helen SMpton. THE STRONG GOD
CIRCUMSTANCE. By Helen
Shipton. Crown 8vo. 6s.
'A story of high merit and many attrac-

tioixs.' — Scotsman.
' An up-to-date story— and a very beautiful
one — of self-sacrifice.' — Daily Tele-
graph.
' A most effective story, written with both
insight and imagination.' — Leeds Mer-
cury.

34

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

Violet Hunt. THE HUMAN IN-
TEREST. By Violet Hunt,
Author of *A Hard Woman,' etc.
Crown 8vo. 6s,

* Clever observation and unfailing wit.' —

Academy.
'The insight is keen, the irony is deli-
cate.' — IVorid.

H. G. WeUs. THE STOLEN BA-
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H. G. Wells. Second Edition.
Crown Bvo. 6s.

* The impressions of a very striking imagina-

tion.' — Saturday Review.

H. G. WeUs. THE PLATTNER
STORY AND Others. By H. G.
Wells. Second Edition. Cr. 8vo.
6s.

* Weird and mysterious, they seem to hold

the reader as by a magic spell.' — Scots-
man.

Richard Marah. MARVELS AND
MYSTERIES. By Richard
Marsh, Author of ' The Beetle.'
Civwn 8vo, 6s.
'While under their immediate influence the
reader is conscious of nothing but thrill-
ing excitement and curiositj''.' — Gtas^oiv
Herald.
'Ingeniously constructed and well told.' —

Mornhig Leader.
'Admirably selected and of the very best.'
— Christian World.

Esm6 Stuart. CHRISTALLA. By

Esm6 Stuart, Crown 8vo. 6s.
' The story is happily conceived, and enter-
taining throughout.' — Scots7nan.
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humour,' — At)ie7UP.ji7n.

* We wish that v/e came across more books

like this clever and charming story. —
Leeds Mercury.

Sara Jeannette Duncan. A VOYAGE
OF CONSOLATION. By Sara
Jeannette Duncan, Author of ' An
American Girl in London.' Illus-
trated. Third Edition. Cr. Svo. 6s.
'A most delightfully bright book.' — Daily

Telegraph.
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Sara Jeannette Duncan. THE PATH
OF A STAR. By Sara Jeannette

Duncan, Author of ' A Voyage of

Consolation. ' Illustrated. Second

Edition. Crown Svo. 6s.

' Richness and fullness of local colouring,

brilliancy of style, smiting phrases, and

the display of very pretty humour are

graces which are here in profusion. The

interest never flags.' — Pall MallGazette.

C. F. Keary. THE JOURNALIST.

By C. F. Keary. Cr. 8vo. _ 6s.
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of character and singularly truthful dia-
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W.E.Norris. MATTHEW AUSTIN.
By W. E. NORRis, Author of ' Made-
moiselle de Mersac,' etc. Fourth
Edition. Crown Svo. 6s.
* An intellectually satisfactory and morally
bracing novel.' — Daily Telegraph.
W.E. Norris. HIS GRACE. ByW. E.
NoRRis. Third Edition. Cr. Svo.
6s.
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LADY AND OTHERS. By W. E.
Norris. Crown Svo. 6s.
W.E. Norris. CLARISSA FURIOSA.

By W. E. Norris. Cr. Svo. 6s.
' As a story it is admirable, as Sij'eu d esprit
it is capital, as a lay sermon studded
with gems of wit and wisdom it is a
model.'— TAff World.

W. E. Norris. GILES INGILBY. By
W. E. Norris. Illustrated. Second
Edition, Crown Svo, 6s,
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written.' — Glasgow Herald.

W. E. Norris. AN OCTAVE. By
W. E. Norris. Second Edition.
Crown Svo. 6s.
' A very perfect exposition of the self-
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ciety and its ways, the delicate sense of
humour, which are the main charac-
teristics of this very accomplished
author.' — Country Life.

Ernest GlanviUe. THE DESPATCH

RIDER. By Ernest Glanville,

Author of 'The Kloof Bride.' Crown

Svo. 6s.

A highly interesting story of the present

Boer War by an author who knows the

country well, and has had experience of

JBoer campaigning.

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

35

W. Clark RusseU. MY DANISH

SWEETHEART. By W. Clark
Russell. Illustrated. Fourth
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Robert Barr. IN THE MIDST OF
ALARMS. By Robert Barr.
Third Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s.

* A book which has ahundantly satisfied us

byits capital humour.' — Daily Chronicle.
*Mr. Barr has achieved a triumph.' — Pall
Mall Gazette.

Robert Barr. THE MUTABLE
MANY. By Robert Barr. Second
Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

* Very much the best novel that Mr. Barr

has yet given us. There is much insight
in it, and much excellent humour.' —
Daily Chronicle.

Robert Barr. THE COUNTESS

TEKLA. By Robert Barr. Second

Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s,

' Of these medijeval romances, which are

now gaining ground, "The Countess

Tekla"is the very best we have seen.

The story is written in clear English,

and a picturesque, moving style.' — Pall

Mall Gazette.

Andrew Balfour. BY STROKE OF
SWORD. By A. Balfour. Illus-
trated. Fourth Edition. Cr. Zvo. 6s.
A banquet of good things.' — Academy. ^
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unflagging vigour.' — Globe.

* An unusually excellent example of a semi-

historic romance.' — World.

Andrew Balfour. TO ARMS ! By
Andrew Balfour. Illustrated.
Second Edition. Crown Zvo. 6s.

* The marvellous perils through which Allan

passes are told in powerful and lively

fashion.'— 'Pall Mall Gazette.
Andrew Balfour. VENGEANCE IS
MINE. By Andrew Balfour,
Author of 'By Stroke of Sword.'
Illustrated. Crown 8vo. 6s.
A vigorous piece of work, well written, and

abounding in stirring incidents.' — Gtas-

govj Herald.

J. Maclaren Cobban. THE KING

OF ANDAMAN : A Saviour of

Society. By J. Maclaren Cobban.

Crown 8vo. 6s.

'An unquestionably interesting book. It

contains one character, at least, who has

in him the root of immortality.'--/'^//

Mall Gazette.

J. Maclaren Cobban. THE ANGEL
OF THE COVENANT. By J.
Maclaren Cobban. Cr. Svo. 6s.

R. N. Stephens. AN ENEMY TO
THE KING. By R. N. Stephens.
Second Editioft. Cr. 8vo. 6s.
' It is full of movement, and the movement

is always buoyant.' — Scotsman.
' A stirring story with plenty of movement.'
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R. N. Steplxena. A GENTLEMAN
PLAYER. By R. N. Stephens,
Author of * An Enemy to the King.'
Crown 8vo. 6s.
'A bright and spirited romance of adven-
ture, full of movement and changing
action. ' — Scotstnan.

R. Hicliens. BYEWAYS. By Robert
Hichens. Author of 'Flames, etc'
Second Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s.
' The work is undeniably that of a man of
striking imagination.' — Daily News.

J, S. netcHer. THE PATHS OF
THE PRUDENT. By J. S. Flet-
cher. Crown 8vo, 6s.

J. B. Burton. IN THE DAY OF

ADVERSITY. By J. Bloundelle-
Burton. Second Edition. Cr. Svo. 6s.
' Unusually interesting and full of highly
dramatic situations.' — Guardian.

J. B. Burton. DENOUNCED. By
J. Bloundelle-Burton. Second
Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.
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World.

3. B. Burton. THE CLASH OF

ARA'IS. By J. Bloundklle-Bur-

ton. Second Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s.

'A brave story — brave in deed, brave in

word, brave in thought.' — St. James's

Gazette.

J. B. Burton. ACROSS THE SALT
SEAS. By J. Bloundelle-Burton.
Seco7id Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.
'The very essence of the true romantic
spirit.' — Truth.

36

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

W. C. ScuUy. THE WHITE HECA-
TOMB. By W. C. Scully, Author
of ' Kafir Stories.' Cr. Sw. ds.
' Reveals a marvellously intimate under-
standing of the Kaffir mind.' — African
Critic.

W. C. Scully. BETWEEN SUN

AND SAND. By W. C. Scully.

Author of 'The White Hecatomb.'

Cr. ivo. bs.
' The reader passes at once into the very
atmosphere of the African desert : the
Inexpressible space and stillness swallow
him up, and there is no world for him but
that immeasurable waste.' — Athenaum.

DANIEL WHYTE,

SON.

By A. J. Daw-

THE CAPSINA. By E. F. BENSON.

DODO : A DETAIL OF THE DAY.
By E. F. Benson.

THE VINTAGE. By E. F. Benson.
Illustrated by G. P. J.'icOMB-HooD.

ROSE A CHARLITTE. By MAR-
SHALL Saunders.

WILLOWBRAKE. By R. MURRAY
Gilchrist.

THINGS THAT HAVE HAP-
PENED. By Dorothea Gerard.

SIR ROBERT'S FORTUNE.
Mrs. Oliphant.

OTHER SIX-SHILLING NOVELS

Crown Zvo.

By

MARYS.
WALK.

By

By Mrs.

By Mrs.

THE TWO

Oliphant.

THE LADY'S
Oliphant.

LONE PINE: A ROMANCE OF
MEXICAN LIFE. By R. B.

TOWNSHEND.

WILT THOU HAVE THIS
WOMAN ? By J. ^IACLAREN
Cobban,

A PASSION.^TE PILGRIM. By
Percy White.

SECRETARY TO BAYNE, M.P.
By W. Rett Ridge.

ADRIAN ROME. By E. DAWSON
and A. MooRE.

THE BUILDERS.
Fletcher.

By J.

MiSnie Muriel

GALLIA.

DOWIE.

THE CROOK OF THE BOUGH.

By M^NIE Muriel Dowie.

A BUSINESS IN GREAT WATERS.
By Julian Coreett.

MISS ERIN. By M. E. Francis.

ANANIAS. By the Hon. Mrs. Alan
Beodrick.

CORRAGEEN IN '98. By Mrs.

Orpen.
THE PLUNDER PIT. ByJ. Keigh-

ley Snowden.

CROSS TRAILS. By Victor Waite.

SUCCESSORS TO THE TITLE.

By Mrs. Walford.
KIRKHAM'S FIND. By Mary

Gaunt.
DEADMAN'S. By MARY Gaunt.

CAPTAIN JACOBUS : A ROMANCE
OF THE ROAD. By L. Cope Corn-
ford.

SONS OF ADVERSITY. By L. Cope
CORNFORD.

THE KING OF ALBERIA.
Laura Daintrey.

By

THE DAUGHTER OF ALOUETTE.
By Mary A. Ovven.

CHILDREN OF THIS WORLD.
By Ellen F. Pinsent.

AN ELECTRIC SPARK. By G.
Manvillb Fenn.

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

37

UNDER SHADOW OF THE
MISSION. By L. S. McChesney.

THE SPECULATORS. By J. F.
Brewer.

THE SPIRIT OF STORM. By
Ronald Ross.

THE QUEENSBERRY CUP. By
Clive p. Wolley.

A HOME IN INVERESK.
L. Paton.

By T.

MISS ARMSTRONG'S AND
OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES. By
John Davidson.

DR. CONGALTON'S LEGACY. By
Henry Johnston.

TIME AND THE WOMAN. By
Richard Pryce.

THIS MAN'S DOMINION. By the
Author of ' A High Little World.'

DIOGENES OF LONDON. By H.
B. Marriott Watson.

THE STONE DRAGON. By
Murray Gilchrist.

A VICAR'S WIFE. By Evelyn
Dickinson.

ELSA. ByE. M 'Queen Gray.

THE SINGER OF MARLY. By I.
Hooper.

THE FALL OF THE SPARROW.
By M. C. Balfour.

A SERIOUS COMEDY. By Herbert

MORRAH.

THE FAITHFUL
Herbert Morrah.

CITY.

By

IN THE GREAT DEEP. By J. A.
Barry.

BIJLI, THE DANCER. By jAMES
Blythe Patton.

JOSIAH'S WIFE. By Norma
Lorimer.

THE PHILANTHROPIST, By
Lucy Maynard.

VAUSSORE. By Francis Brune.

THREE-AND-SIXPENNY NOVELS

Crown Zvo.

DERRICK VAUGHAN, NOVEL-
IST. ^2nd thousand. By Edna
Lyall.
A SON OF THE STATE. By W.

Pett Ridge.
CEASE FIRE! By J. MACLAREN

Cobban. Crown Svo. y. dd.
A stirring Story of the Boer War of 1881,
including the Siege of Potchefstrom and
the Defeat of Majuha,
' Brightly told and drawn with a strong and

sure hand.' — St. Jaiues's Gazette.
'A capital novel.' — Scotsman.
' Fact and fiction are so deeply woven
together that the hook reads like a fas-
cinating chapter of history.' — Pall Mall
Gazette.
THE KLOOF BRIDE. By Ernest

Glanville.
A VENDETTA OF THE DESERT.

By W. C. Scully.
SUBJECT TO VANITY. By Mar-
garet Benson.

THE SIGN OF THE SPIDER.
Bertram Mitford.

By

THE MOVING FINGER. By Mary
Gaunt.

JACO TRELOAR. By J. H. Pearce.
THE DANCE OF THE HOURS.
By ' Vera.'

A WOMAN OF FORTY. By Esme

Stuart.
A CUMBERER OF THE GROUND.

By Constance Smith.

THE SIN OF ANGELS, By EvELYN
Dickinson.

AUT DIABOLUS AUT NIHIL.
By X. L.

THE COMING OF CUCULAIN.
By Standish O'Grady.

THE GODS GIVE MY DONKEY
WINGS. By Angus Evan Abbott.

38

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

THE STAR GAZERS. By G. Man-

VILLE FeNN.

THE POISON OF ASPS. By R.

Orton Prowse.
THE QUIET MRS. FLEMING. By

R. Pryce.
DISENCHANTMENT. By F.Mabel

Robinson.
THE SQUIRE OF WANDALES.

By A. Shield.
A REVEREND GENTLEMAN. By

J. M. Cobban.
A DEPLORABLE AFFAIR. By

W. E. Norris.

A CAVALIER'S LADYE. By Mrs.
Dicker.

THE PRODIGALS. By Mrs.
Oliphant.

THE SUPPLANTER. By P. Neu-
mann.

A MAN WITH BLACK EYE-
LASHES. By H. A. Kennedy.

A HANDFUL OF EXOTICS. By
S. Gordon.

AN ODD EXPERIMENT. By
Hannah Lynch.

TALES OF NORTHUMBRIA. By
Howard Pease.

HALF-CROWN NOVELS

Crown Svo.

HOVENDEN, V.C. By F. MABEL

Robinson.
THE PLAN OF CAMPAIGN. By

F. Mabel Robinson.
MR. BUTLER'S WARD. By F.

Mabel Robinson.
ELI'S CHILDREN. By G. Man-

VILLE FeNN.

A DOUBLE KNOT. By G. Man-

VILLE FENN.

DISARMED. By M. Betham
Edwards.

IN TENT AND BUNGALOW. By
the Author of ' Indian Idylls.'

MY STEWARDSHIP. By E.
M'Queen Gray.

JACK'S FATHER. By W. E.

NORRIS.

A LOST ILLUSION. By Leslie
Keith.

THE TRUE HISTORY OF JOSHUA
DAVIDSON, Christian and Com-
munist. By E. Lynn Lynton.
Eleventh Edition, Post Zvo. \s.

ICbe IRovelist

Messrs. Methuen are making an interesting experiment which constitutes a
fresh departure in publishing. They are issuing under the above general title
a Monthly Series of Novels by popular authors at the price of Sixpence. Many
of these Novels have never been published before. Each Number is as long as
the average Six ShilHng Novel. The first numbers of ' The Novelist ' are as
follows : —

I. DEAD MEN TELL NO TALES.

E. W. HOKNUNG.

11, JENNIE BAXTER, JOURNA-
LIST. Robert Barr.

in. THE INCA'S TREASURE.

Ernest Glanville.
IV. A SON OF THE STATE. W.
Pett Ridge.
V. FURZE BLOOM. S. Baring

Gould.
VI. BUNTER'S CRUISE. C.

Gleig.

VII. THE GAY DECEIVERS,

Arthur Moore.

VIII. PRISONERS OF WAR. A.

Boyson Weekes.

IX. THE ADVENTUREOF PRIN-
CESS SYLVIA. Mrs. C. F.
Williamson.
X. VELDT AND LAAGER: Tales
of the Transvaal. E.S.Valen-
tine.

XI. THE NIGGER KNIGHTS.

F. Norreys Connell.
XH. A MARRIAGE AT SEA. W.
Clark Russell.

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

39

Books for Boys and Girls

A Series of Books by well-known Authors, well illustrated.
THREE-AND-SIXPENCE EACH

THE ICELANDER'S SWORD. By

S. Baring Gould.
TWO LITTLE CHILDREN AND

CHING. By Edith E. Cuthell.
TODDLEBEN'S HERO. By M. M.

ONLY A GUARD -ROOM DOG.

By Edith E. Cuthell.
THE DOCTOR OF THE JULIET.

By Harry Collingwood.

MASTER ROCKAFELLAR'S VOY-
AGE. By W. Clark Russell.

SYD HELTON : Or, The Boy who

would not go to Sea. By G. Man-

VILLE Fenn.
THE WALLYPUG IN LONDON.

By G. E. Fareow.
ADVENTURES IN WALLYPUG

LAND. By G. E. FARROW, ^s.

The Peacock Library

A Series of Books for Girls by well-known Authors, handsomely bound,
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THREE-AND-SIXPENCE EACH

THE RED GRANGE.
Molesworth.

By Mrs.

MADAME DE
the Author of

THE SECRET OF
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OUT OF THE FASHION.
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By L.

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HEPSY GIPSY.
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MISS. By

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itself, and the subjects are treated by competent writers in a broad and
philosophic spirit.

Edited by J. E. SYMES, M.A.,

Principal of University College, Nottingham.

Crown %vo. Price {with some exceptions') 2s. 6d.

The following volumes are ready :-

THE INDUSTRIAL HISTORY OF
ENGLAND. By H. de B. Giebins,
Litt.D., M.A., late Scholar of Wad-
ham College, Oxon., Cobden Prize-
man. Sixth Edition, Revised. With
Maps and Plans, y,

A HISTORY OF ENGLISH POLITI-
CAL ECONOMY. By L. L. Price,

M. A. , Fellow of Oriel College, Oxon.
Third Edition.

PROBLEMS OF POVERTY : An
Inquiry into the Industrial Condi-
tions of the Poor. By J. A. HOBSON,
M.A. Fourth Edition.

VICTORIAN POETS. By A. SHARP.

40

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. By
J. E. Symes, M.A.

PSYCHOLOGY. By F. S. Granger,
M.A. Second Edition.

THE EVOLUTION OF PLANT
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Massee. With Illustrations.

AIR AND WATER. ByV. B.Lewes,
M.A. Illustrated.

THE CHEMISTRY OF LIFE AND
HEALTH. By C. W. KiMMINS,
M.A. Illustrated.

THE MECHANICS OF D.MLY
LIFE. ByV. P. Sells, M.A. Illus-
tra ted.

ENGLISH SOCIAL REFORMERS.
By H. de B. Gibbins, Litt.D., M.A.

ENGLISH TRADE AND FINANCE
IN THE SEVENTEENTH CEN-
TURY. By W. A. S. Hewins, B.A.

THE CHEMISTRY OF FIRE. The
Elementary Principles of Chemistry.
By M. M. Pattison Muik, M.A.
Illustrated.

A TEXT-BOOK OF AGRICUL-

TUR.\L BOTANY. By M. C.

Pottek, M.A., F.L.S. Illustrated.

2S. 6d.

THE VAULT OF HEAVEN. A
Popular Introduction to Astronomy.
By R. A. Gregory. With numerous
Illustrations.

METEOROLOGY. The Elements of
Weather and Climate. By H. N.
Dickson, F.R.S.E., F.R. Met. Soc.
Illustrated.

A MANUAL OF ELECTRICAL
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M.A- With numerous Illustrations.

THE EARTH. An Introduction to
Physiography. By EVAN Small,
M.A. Illustrated.

INSECT LIFE. By F. W. Theo-
B.\LD, M.A. Illustrated.

ENGLISH POETRY FROM BLAKE
TO BROWNING. By W. M.
DiXON, M.A.

ENGLISH

I MENT.

LOCAL GOVERN-
By E. JENKS, M.A., Pro-
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Liverpool.

THE GREEK VIEW OF LIFE. By
G. L. Dickinson, Fellow of King's
College, Cambridge. Second Edition.

Social Questions of To-day-
Edited by H. DE B. GIBBINS, Litt.D., M.A.
Crown Svo. 2s. 6d.

A series of volumes upon those topics of social, economic, and industrial
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Each volume of the series is written by an author who is an acknowledged
authority upon the subject with which he deals.

The following Volumes of the Series are ready : —

TRADE UNIONISM— NEW AND
OLD. By G. Hovi'ELL. Second

Edition.

THE CO - OPERATIVE MOVE-
MENT TO-DAY. By G. J. HoLY-
OAKE. Second Edition.

Messrs. Methuen's Catalogue

41

MUTUAL THRIFT. By Rev. J.
Frome Wilkinson, M.A.

PROBLEMS OF POVERTY. By J.
A. HOBSON, M.A. Fourth Edition.

THE COMMERCE OF NATIONS.
ByC. F. Bastable, M.A., Professor
of Economics at Trinity College,
Dublin. Second Edition.

THE ALIEN INVASION.
H. WiLKINS, B.A.

By W.

THE RURAL EXODUS. By P.
Anderson Graham.

LAND NATIONALIZATION.
Harold Cox, B.A.

By

A SHORTER WORKING DAY.
By H. DE B. GiBBINS, D.Litt., M.A.,
and R. A. Hadfield, of the Hecla
Works, Sheffield.

BACK TO THE LAND : An Inquiry
into the Cure for Rural Depopulation.
By H. E. Moore.

TRUSTS, POOLS AND CORNERS.
By J. Stephen Jeans.

THE FACTORY SYSTEM. By R.
W. Cooke-Taylor.

THE STATE AND ITS CHIL-
DREN. By Gertrude Tuckwell.

WOMEN'S WORK. ByLADYDiLKE,
Miss BuLLEY, and Miss Whitley.

SOCIALISM AND MODERN
THOUGHT. By M. Kaufmann.

THE HOUSING OF THE WORK-
ING CLASSES. By E. Bowmaker.

MODERN CIVILIZATION IN
SOME OF ITS ECONOMIC
ASPECTS. By W. Cunningham,
D.D., Fellow of Trinity College,
Cambridge.

THE PROBLEM OF THE UN-
EMPLOYED. By J. A. HoBSON,
B.A.

LIFE IN WEST LONDON. By
Arthur Sherwell, M.A. Second
Edition.

RAILWAY NATIONALIZATION.
By Clement Edwards.

WORKHOUSES AND PAUPER-
ISM. By Louisa Twining.

UNIVERSITY AND SOCIAL
SETTLEMENTS. By W. Reason,
M.A.

Classical Translations

Edited by H. F. FOX, M.A. , Fellow and Tutor of Brasenose College, Oxford.

^SCHYLUS — Agamemnon, Choe-
phoroe, Eumenides. Translated by
Lewis Campbell, LL.D., late Pro-
fessor of Greek at St. Andrews. 5^.

CICERO— De Oratore I. Translated
by E. N. P. Moor, M.A. 3J-. 6rf.

CICERO— Select Orations (Pro Milone,
Pro Murena, Philippic 11,, In Catili-
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